Rebuilt front Knee Shocks, back were easy, as bed was off for paint. Got 2bbl Weber from Tom Langdon a few weeks back , purrs like a kitten. New Fenton headers next week Bill, 49-3100
I got a 1938 license plate authenticated for my '38 truck. I personally walked it into the Florida dmv in Tallahassee on Wednesday last week. They rejected it because the color I painted it didn't match the colors for 1938. "I did a visual match to the plate, colors had faded and changed in 79 years." The clerk told me to bring it back when it's the correct color. Some blue tape, a razor blade and yellow rustoleum it was ready. On Friday I returned and got it approved.
Wayne 1938 1-Ton Farm Truck -30- Stovebolt Gallery Forums When I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it!
Wayne - is there any online visuals for the various Florida tags which can be used to match the Florida Authenticated tags? Also a Floridian and considering doing the same (1950 3100) as what you did with using a historic tag.
Wayne - is there any online visuals for the various Florida tags which can be used to match the Florida Authenticated tags? Also a Floridian and considering doing the same (1950 3100) as what you did with using a historic tag.
Wayne - You have outstanding powers of persuasion. I thought that Florida DMV wouldn't approve YOM license plates that have been repainted. Glad you found a '38 plate for Verne.
- Lonnie
- Lonnie My '54 3104 Photos that I have shared on Stovebolt via PhotoBucket are no longer available. Please contact me if you want a photo from an old post. lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com. I sold my '54 3104 12/12/2017, but I still visit Stovebolt.
OLD STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, wine ... I love it all
This weekend and last we got my powder-coated frame on stands, put the 3rd member in the rear axle and put it on. We also got the front axle on as well as the whole steering linkage assembly. We painted springs, steering, back hubs and front. We then put front hubs on. I went from a frame to a rolling chassis. I can't believe all we did. Super excited!
Wayne - You have outstanding powers of persuasion. I thought that Florida DMV wouldn't approve YOM license plates that have been repainted. Glad you found a '38 plate for Verne.
- Lonnie
Lonnie, the clerks are not as stringent as the website indicates.
However, I am very good at taping, cutting and spraying with a rattle can. The plate looks brand new!
Wayne 1938 1-Ton Farm Truck -30- Stovebolt Gallery Forums When I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it!
Reinstalled the cylinder head and ran long enough to know it will run. Then reinstalled the front clip, radiator, etc. filled with water and ran to operating temp and adjusted valves.
Just renewed registration, so a drive isn't too fr off!
Pulled the plug out of the intake manifold (1967 327) and installed the oil filler tube and breather cap that would be correct for the '62 C10 with a 283 V8. I got the one with the bracket for the throttle return spring so I can remove the bracket from the intake bolt.
Removed the ugly Mickey Thompson, finned aluminum valve covers and the stupid T-Handle bolts that held them on. I replaced them with factory valve covers from a later model SBC. Since I am using the old style breather, I welded up the hole for the breather cap on the passenger side and just ran the PCV on the driver side. I also cut off the brackets for the plug wires and repainted them. Now that I have the shorter, stock style valve covers, I can get a shorter drive belt for the alternator and get that back in the middle of the adjustment instead of at the end of it.
Trying to bring the look back towards a stock truck, not a Teenage Hot Rod nightmare.
Future update will include removing the plug in the draft tube hole and installing a custom plug that will accept a PCV, then plumbing that into the system and replacing the current valve covers with the Chevrolet Script ones. But, that is further down the road.
Finally got a chance to install the parking brake pieces on my 1962 C-10. These parts had been removed from inside the drums by the previous owner. I was amazed at how hard to find the actuating arms were but my Brother came through for me. Install was straight forward and took about an hour total. Another job crossed off the list.ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Couldn’t have done it without Bartamos and your helpful photos.ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Pulled the front clip off today and got it about half disassembled to take care of the bodywork on fenders, etc. rigging to pull front clip coming off
Found some stuff that a PO had done. I don't think the radiator support is stock - someone welded some 1/2" steel stock to the bottom. The spring mount was replaced by a rubber pad. bottom of radiator support
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Reset the dwell on the '62 C10. I hadn't done it in a while, so I thought I would check it. Truck was running fine, but you know, preventative maintenance and all that. hooked up the meter and saw it was at 21, WOW! way off. Reset it to 30 and all is good.
The brake pedal went nearly to the floor. Checked the brake fluid and it was severely low, so I filled the master cylinder with Dot 3, then bleed the brakes and now I've got a short, hard pedal again. I also replaced a tailgate chain with an original I bought at a swap meet last year. The threads on mine were stripped so I couldn't tighten it up. Had to use a nut splitter to get it off. Last thing I did was to order new 1/0 gauge positive and negative battery cables. My hope is that they will improve my original 6V ignition system.
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
I remember the old Pepsodent toothpaste adds: "You'll wonder where the yellow went when you brush your teeth with Pepsodent." Concerning your brake fluid, I wonder where the fluid went. I assume you checked for leaks. Sometimes it's just a mystery. Time can evaporate it.
Jim, I wondered too where the fluid went. I noticed no leaks at the wheel cylinders and only minor wetness around the master cylinder area. It's been 4-5 years since I've added any brake fluid. It's a mystery!
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Have you replaced ALL of the brake lines or are they the factory originals? Brake lines fail from the inside out. They can look great on the outside and be paper thin due to rust on the inside...
I actually worked on my non-Bolt today. My '59 F-350 had vacuum windshield wipers that no longer worked. As luck would have it, the parts truck I have for it was equipped with electric wipers. Even though it was basically a bolt in swap, it still involved a lot of crawling around under the dash. For a 68 year old guy with neck problems and bifocals, this is not nearly as much fun as it used to be! But they are working great now and I'm pretty darn proud of myself!!
Rich, posting about a FERD in the specific "What did you get done on your BOLT today ????" forum just isn't right. I almost deleted it, but since your otherwise a nice guy I will leave it. Unless it starts a trend at which time it and the others will be gone.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
After recovering from Rich’sToys Ferd posting fiasco, I went out and put the ‘62 C-10 on the lift. Been meaning to adjust the slack out of the steering sector for some time now. Cool crisp morning and the lift is outside. Felt good being out in the sun and fresh air. Made the adjustment and let the truck down. Backed off the lift and took a 4 mile drive. No more chasing the steering wheel with the ruts in the road. Time for coffee.ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Worked on installing the E-Z Wire harness..... I got the mini 12 circuit figuring I wouldn't need any more than that. Couldn't get it working in conjunction with the original Sig-Stat 9 wire turn signals. I finally wired the Sig-Stat into the headlight switch and bypassed the harness altogether and everything worked as planed...
For some time now the position of the steering wheel has been bugging the dickens out of me. Around a 1/4 turn off when driving straight. Went out this morning and pulled the wheel and straightened it up. Next is new plug wires, plugs and a tune up. Chipping away a little at a time.ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
After about 6 months of being out of commission while I replaced the two rusted out cowls and cleaned and painted everything under the hood I worked today on aligning the two front fenders and the hood. I was able to get it back on the road. I took it out for its first drive since spring. It was a great ride.
The tech tip on aligning the hood was a life saver. I had been trying everything and was making no progress. The key was removing the hood springs. With the hood springs loose the hood dropped right into place when I loosened the bolts. I didn't have to tap, jostle or muscle anything.
Brought my 37 1.5 ton home last week. Installed new plugs, points, condenser and rotor. Waiting for new distributor cap, spark plug wires, new ground and new starter to battery wires. Filled radiator (leaked like a faucet) but that was because someone was smart enough to leave the pet cocks open. Closed them up, seems to be holding water. We shall see.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/50657267@N08/sets/
1939 1/2 ton Resto-mod 1937 1 1/2 ton Is in the driveway
I just finished installing my new battery cables that arrived last Friday. Had planned to install them last Saturday but the holes on the solid copper lugs were a bit too small for the bolts I wanted them to fit on, so I had to find time to put them in the vise and drill them out to fit. Went with 1/0 size and boy, did they make a difference!?!?! The truck hadn't been started in 5 days but when I hit the stomp pedal the starter motor spun the engine over faster than it has ever been and it lit up immediately!! It's never done that in the 9 years I've owned it. Thanks to Jerry "Hotrod Lincoln" and all the other 'bolters who gave me advice in the electrical forum. I highly recommend the upgrade to large diameter cables if you're still running an original 6 volt system!
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Worked on installing the E-Z Wire harness..... I got the mini 12 circuit figuring I wouldn't need any more than that. Couldn't get it working in conjunction with the original Sig-Stat 9 wire turn signals. I finally wired the Sig-Stat into the headlight switch and bypassed the harness altogether and everything worked as planed...
I'll be using that same combination; thanks for the heads-up.
Been doing little things such as new glovebox bumpers, new instrument bezel screws, new door/window handle gaskets and washers. Got a box of parts from Classic Parts yesterday. Mostly little stuff that I can do a little at a time on warm days this winter.ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)