Facts: The truck has been rewired with harnesses from Rhode Island Electric. There is a new gas tank as well as a new sending unit (tested). The guage reads in the reverse. That is, when float is raised the guage will move toward empty. If I ground the sender wire it will move toward full rather than empty as it should.
In desperation, I even reversed the wires on the guage. Nothing changed. Same situation.
Thanks for the articles. I did perform the tests covered in the articles. Regardless of what methods I use, the needle will do exactly opposite of what should happen.
In your first posting, you stated that you reversed the wires and got the same results. If you grounded the sender wire to the gauge, the needle should never move. If it did, you've got other problems.
As a side note if the sender doesn't have a reversible float shaft you can "carefully" bend the float shaft 180 degrees close to the pivot point and accomplish the same effect.
Take the float out of the tank with the wire still connected. Attach a ground wire to the mounting flange (you can use a small bolt and nut to do this). Then move the float up and down while someone monitors the gauge. If it reads full when the float is down, and empty when it's up, and it goes up and down smoothly as you manipulate the float, then you've confirmed that the float is the problem and not something else. Once you've confirmed that, figure out how to reverse the float, as LeeP points out, so that the resistance increases as the gas level increases.
It's a very simple circuit. The flange is grounded, and the wiper bar that moves on the resistor adds resistance to the circuit based on the float level. When the float is in the down position (empty), the wiper bar should be all the way at the bottom (or top, depending upon its design) of the resistor. If, when the float is down, the bar is farthest away from the grounded side, the float needs to be reversed.
Question regarding Harold46 post of fuel gauge testing. Fuel gauge in 51 Chev. 3100 five window reading full. Question is, if I pull the battery from the vehicle and the issues covered in the fillingstation article exist (bad ground, etc) will the gauge still read full?
Allen Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude
1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer 1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer 1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod 1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great 1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week 1974 Stingray Corvette
He last posted on 12-9-2017. I am going to guess that whoever manufactured that sending unit, assembled it wrong. Would like to hear back from guys with problems like this. Maybe he used a sharpie and put an F where the E belongs, and vise-versa like I'd've done. (Take note of the rarely used triple contraction. ) Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Could be Carl. I'm having some fuel gauge issues so need to bone up. Nothing is easy to get to. Noticed that Harold posted some pretty good documentation on troubleshooting.
Allen Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude
1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer 1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer 1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod 1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great 1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week 1974 Stingray Corvette