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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,781 Posts1,039,297 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 250 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 250 | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,877 . | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,877 | Yes, they look just like mine.
You may be confused on how they remove. The hub is one piece including the "extension" for dual type wheels, all one piece, nothing comes apart, it's NOT a bolted on "extension" as you might guess at first glance.. The brake drum is bolted to the back of hub, only remove those nuts/bolts if you desire to remove the brake drum, which is usually never, new drums are real hard to find or non existent.
To remove the hub and drum assembly unscrew the hub cap, remove cotter key, and unscrew spindle nut. Then pull hub off, outer bearing and flat washer will also come out and possibly fall out of the hub, catch them.
If you then want to remove brake drum from the hub, do so.
| | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 26 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 26 | Ok, yes I was thinking the extension was something from another year or vehicle. Was thinking of put disc up front, but with the extension on there not sure how that would work for rotors? Looking on Hollister's site the hub they show for 1-ton doesn't seem to have that extension?
1950 3800 dually
| | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,675 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,675 | The extension is used on 3800's with dual rear wheels to extend the front tread centerline. The 4-wheel versions like the 3800 pickup with 4 wheels instead of 6 don't need the extra tread width and the front hub us different. They also use wheels with a different offset. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,877 . | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,877 | Perhaps I shouldn't have mentioned "extension" at all because it's not. It's only confused with or misunderstood as an extension and I may have added to that confusion. These trucks had 2 different front hubs, one type that fits dual wheels, and another that fits single wheels. That's it, no extensions. Ask the folks that make the disc brake setup what will work. Looking in the parts catalog the backing plates are the same for single and dual wheels, as I expected. I thought drums were also same, and they are for 53-54, but for 47-52 they list different front drums for single and dual wheels. I'm not sure the difference or if enough difference to matter. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/parts/1929_54/369.htmI believe the disc brake kit has you slide the rotors on over the studs, before attaching the wheel. this method won't work with the dual wheel hub, a rotor would have to bolt on the back of the hub just the same as the original drum did. Ask the seller before buying. | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 26 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 26 | Grigg-
I think the "extension" term is appropriate. I realize it is all one piece but is extended when compared to the SRW version. I'm trying to sort keeping original brakes and spending the money for pad relining, wheel cylinders and springs vs. disc front and an axle swap in the rear for newer drum or disc 14bolt rear. I just don't know if the original brakes when rebuilt will leave me confident in stopping power compared to what I'm accustomed to with today's brakes.
1950 3800 dually
| | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,877 . | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,877 | Compared to modern brakes, no, as you'd expect the originals are not that good. If your truck has stock or similar stovebolt engine the original brakes in good shape are perfectly adequate.
If you change engine and gearing to go fast the original brakes will feel inadequate.
I do have 4.10 gears in my GMC and the original brakes seem fine for 55 mph. Still plan your stops as far out as you can, helps those brakes last longer too. | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 26 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 26 | I far as I can tell everything is stock. I don't intend on driving long distances (+25 miles) but the area I live in you'd be hard pressed to not be on a roadway that is >55mph. So I just answered my own question there, upgraded brakes it is. I may have other drivers to this vehicle as well and I think it would be wisest to put brakes in that most drivers could handle without much forethought into changing braking habits.
1950 3800 dually
| | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,877 . | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,877 | I always suggest before jumping into big changes first fix up the truck to drive as it is. Then after driving it for some months or years reevaluate what it is you think the truck needs.
Without a good reference point you don't really know and understand what you should change, if anything, to meet your desires.
Might save time and money if the truck is OK as it is. Remember it was new once and at that time it was as good as they came. | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,675 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,675 | The simplest way to increase your stopping power without doing major surgery to the brake system would be to install an appropriate-sized Hydrovac unit. It's a simple conversion, and it provided adequate braking for these trucks back when they were really used as trucks- - - -fully loaded, or more likely, overloaded on a daily basis. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 26 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 26 | Hotrod-
I'll admit I know nothing about hydrovac brakes. What is the recommended hydrovac unit to add to the brake system on a 3800 DRW?
1950 3800 dually
| | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 103 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 103 | I sold one for a 2.5 ton to a guy who installed it on a half ton. He loved it. The difference is the bore size, which means, the larger the bore, the farther the pedal travel, so your pedal will go a bit farther, but it will take less effort to achieve the same amount of braking. PM me if you're interested in one. | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | One also has to consider the volume of brake fluid, some masters are 1.5", while some are smaller, some wheel cylinders are larger than others.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
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