The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay No electrical activity after truck has sat for over 2 years

Back during the summer and fall of '14 I was working on replacing the brake system (master and slave cylinders, shoes, lines...all of it) on my '69 C-10. Had her on jack stands and all was going well. I was and still am a complete newbie with no experience except what I've learned by doing, not even having done anything beyond changing oil until I started fooling with the truck. With the brake project only partially complete, life interfered and Maude (my truck) has sat idle since. It's been at least 2 years since the engine ran, which was fine before the lapse. I tried to start it a few months ago and got nothing...and I mean nothing. Not only was there no starter action, but no dash lights, no cab lights, nothing with the key switched on. I charged and checked the battery by jumpering it directly to the horn, which screamed loudly. Does anyone have any particular thoughts on where an electrical issue may have developed? The ignition switch is original, and wobbly. As far as I know, the starter is also original. The whole battery-cable-goes-stratight-to-the-starter thing I don't really understand.

Darren

You're getting back to it. That's good.
You know if was running fine two years ago, so I'd start with that. Make sure all of your connections from the battery are clean, including ground connections to the engine and frame.
Critters have a way of munching on things we wish they wouldn't. After you know you have a strong battery and contacts are good, you should get something.

Thanks, Victor, for your thoughts. That's a place to start.

Toss the old battery. Honking a horn is not the way to test for load. If it sat for 2-3 years it is junk. Then do as Victor said.🛠

Roger.

"We test- - - -not guess!" Sun Electric Co. put that slogan on all their test equipment over 60 years ago and it's still just as right today. Take the battery out and have a parts store such as O'Reilly's or Advance Auto Parts test it. Chances are it won't pass the load test, but give it a chance for a blindfiold and a last cigarette before you call the firing squad to attention. Most likely, the cable clamps where they meet the battery have corroded and all they need is a good scrubbing with a battery post and clamp cleaner- - - -that tool costs a small fraction of what a battery does.
Jerry

You would want a new battery if you are planning on revamping your interest in driving it. The old battery is a valuable exchange core. Take it with you.

Clean the cable end clamps that go on the battery or get new cables. As said. Then try starting, check the oil pressure immediately, report what happens next. No pressure? Stop motor.

I just finished job #2 for the day, walked outside, hooked up the battery charger, switched on the key, and...got the red glow of the generator and oil pressure lights. I can switch on the dome light and headlights. Of course turning the key to start only dims the aforementioned lights. But the electrical connection issue is apparently something jiggle-able.

CLEAN
THE
BATTERY
CABLES!

Your symptoms are the classic ones I've seen for over 50 years.

Somebody else take over- - - - -the only good thing about beating one's head against a brick wall is that it feels so good when you stop!
Jerry

Yes, hope you have cleaned them. Otherwise the draw is too much for the corrosion to carry. You need to clean the battery posts, then take battery in for a new one, then buy new cables. (that's a joke).
Did you get a click? or starter rotated? or what. If you want help without 50 posts, describe what is happening. Your post, which are typical of inexperienced persons, are not definitive. Get a new battery and get new cables and things will start to fall in place. We can't diagnose the patient until there is a heartbeat. The motor won't start from a glow. This is not to spend your money foolishly but would be done on an old truck as normal maintenance after sitting. Batteries won't tolerate sitting, they dry out and when asked to rejuvenate, it's Kings X.

HRL, Bartamos and the others who try to help become frustrated and a bit testy when the advice given is ignored. Do as suggested then report back to us letting us know how well it runs. If it doesn't start then the collective minds will slap their foreheads in amazement and start over. We are here to help but you have to be willing to help us help you.

I was in your exact position a number of years ago. Old truck, no tools, no time, no experience. No brakes.Worked through all of that (no) stuff by slow and steady method and with the help of good advice provided in simple bite sizes. You will get traction (so to speak) at your pace. We will be patient and chime in when time and info suggest. To this point advice is good. Likely only weak battery and bad connections. Ground circuit is critical. If ground point has developed corrosion over the time it will need a good wire brushing. Once we confirm good electricity we will troubleshoot Ingintion side if required.

Dothan? Made a quick run through there with fly safety. We have things in common.
Hambone

Well, gents, last night I left the charger on the battery (of course) and a bit ago had time to inspect and clean the battery posts and cable ends. When I tried to crank her, that starter jumped to life, but there was no ignition. I gave her a shot of starter fluid and with the next try, for a second or two, the turn-over rhythm quickened a bit. There was still no real "ignition" action then, or with subsequent attempts. But that's a concern for another day, hopefully the weekend. The electrical connection issue is settled and I thank one and all for input. I wouldn't have thought that cleaning such that didn't even look dirty or corroded would cause such a difference!

Now- - - - -clean or change the points.. They get an almost invisible coating of oxidation that results in a weak spark or none at all.
Jerry