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Joined: Jun 2017
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Finished my headliner after two 3 hour Saturdays. Had to be the most difficult install to date. These are my now professional pointers. I'm working on a 49 3600.
I removed the front window trims. Pulled the windlace out at the top front half. Just where it covers the liner.
There was no way I was going to get the liner in the window rubber so I didn't. I don't see any reason to either.
I used the windlace to hold the ends up while I put some screws in some 6" long wood shims in the center section to hold it in the correct location. Screwed to the bow in the roof.
Didn't use any ammonia water except when I unrolled the pieces. Didn't need it during the install.
After getting a few center screws in the middle and a few each way. I worked the liner into shape on one end.
I'm sure I didn't have the correct liner for my 49 so I trimmed the front and made new notches for the screws and reinstalled the window trim on one side. Most of the screws found the holes but two had to be redrilled. Then did the same on the other side.
At this point the liner is covering the windlace track so I pushed the liner up into position and carefully trimmed the sides till it fit tight above the track.
Then reinstalled the windlace on both sides.
I used the floating center bow and carefully pushed it into position behind the liner. It's too long for my truck so I cut both sides till it rested on the top of the windlace track. Then fit it into the liner. Start one side and then drill and screw it in position with one screw low enough so the windlace rubber will cover it. If you dont. Your not going to get the bow in place.
After drilling and screwing the bow in position on both ends check for fit.
Remove the screws and remove the bow and put it on the back liner. Tape it on from the TOP SIDE or your not going to get it back on the front liner. It will just come off and you will not be able to get it back in the track.
Now pull out the windlace in the rear section on both sides.
Take the rear liner with the bow taped in place and get it into position centered. At this time your going to be glad you pre-fit the bow on the front liner.
Carefully install the liner and bow into the front bow. Then screw the bow in place.
Now you just need to work it into place and screw in the back bow. Do this while pressing the liner forward. Trim only to locate the screw holes.
Now just take a razor knife and trim the ends while pressing the liner up till it sets tight against the windlace track.
Replace the windlace track and your done.

I'm glad I used the wrong liner for my truck because I was able to trim it where needed and didn't have any places that were short. One thing I left out. Wash your hands to remove anything that will stain or leave a shinny spot.

This was my first experience with this install

Don


Can’t begin to tell you how much I hate the name Stovebolt.
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'Bolter
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Thanks for the write-up, Don.


~ Dave
1950 Chevrolet 3600 3/4-ton with 261 engine & T5 Transmission
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,252
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
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A tip for the "wash hands" portion. Use surgical gloves.

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'Bolter
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And if you're bald, and it's a sweltering 100+ degrees outside, wear a hat.......!!


~ Dave
1950 Chevrolet 3600 3/4-ton with 261 engine & T5 Transmission
Joined: Nov 2001
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'Bolter
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The new way to do it,,,
Turn the truck upside-down. Then you can roll around on your creeper to install it.
On a serious note,, I had an established upholstery shop(46yrs) throw away 2 of those repro
cardboard headliners, and just simply made me a bowed, cloth headliner. It came out a much cleaner, neater job.

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
The next set that I put in my Suburban will be epoxy primed all the way around (with special care on the edges). That might keep the humidity out.

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It's really hot here and gloves would be a big sweat problem. I have to ware long sleeves to keep from dripping sweat on my work.

Don


Can’t begin to tell you how much I hate the name Stovebolt.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,519
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'Bolter
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The one I mentioned above was on my pick-up.
I had the same guy do the complete headliner in my Panel truck for 500.00.
Its a normal, cloth headliner, just like in a regular vehicle. I pre-insulated it myself.
Hes at the point now where he wont even look at a cardboard headliner.

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Im pretty sure cardboard headliners will be my choice on these trucks. After doing the first one. It will be a breeze doing it again.

Don


Can’t begin to tell you how much I hate the name Stovebolt.
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,820
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Buy a piece of headliner and about 5 or six pieces of poster board (like the kids use in school). Using the poster board, cut smaller pieces to fit around the headliner area taping them to the cab bow and taping them together around the edges in toward the center until you have the headliner hole covered being careful to keep all edges exactly where they are supposed to be to fit the full spot perfectly. I didn't force the poster up into the "hole", I let it more or less hang in a natural smooth state. I found out this worked for me. I also found out the headliner cardboard will not flex into the complete hole, but go up in enough to give you a finished look. Push too hard and might collapse.
I approached it this way and my headliner looks good even though I had to use one long screw in the middle of the bow to hold it up - not tight, just up in a natural upward pull. Been in for a few years and looks good.
It just seems that the cardboard headliner will not pull up tight like a cloth headliner will, from what I learned.
It worked for me.
I hope this may help some of you.


"Truckin' Around .......... Since 1937!"
My name is Joe and I am addicted to Classic Country Music. I just can't hep myself.
Operators are standing by to take your calls!
Now cruising in the Passing Lane
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'Bolter
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Thanks for this thread, I'm not far from doing this. I like the poster board template idea.


1953 Chevrolet 3100
261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done
In the DITY Gallery
Video of the 261 running

1964 GMC 1000
305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
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Make sure it's not too small. Because when you push the last section in it might make it short in other spots.

Don


Can’t begin to tell you how much I hate the name Stovebolt.
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,518
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'Bolter
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Got my headliner in and was very happy with the cardboard kit from bowtie bits. The kit was a perfect fit. Made in USA too.
Little bit of trimming on the rear piece of cardboard only. A couple little tidbits to aid anyone doing this.
1) Start with the front piece and loosen but dont remove the windshield garnish mouldings, thise will hold one end on the cardboard headliner for you while you side the other end into the floating center retainer.
2) Hang the rear retainer loose by just 2 screws, this will hold the rear part of the rear cardboard, while you slide the front part of the rear cardboard into the center retainer
3) tighten the rear retainer
4)Trim the rear piece of cardboard on the back portion under the rear retainer with a razor blade.

Last edited by sstock; 09/16/2017 6:26 AM.

1953 Chevrolet 3100
261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done
In the DITY Gallery
Video of the 261 running

1964 GMC 1000
305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 308
5
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 308
I painted the interior roof with bed-liner, left over from doing the frame, before installing headliner. When I took out the old one a huge nest from a mice family was under it. The cab sure smelled nice..

Joined: Jan 2016
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'Bolter
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I trimmed the new headliner on a table saw.............to get a perfect straight edge on the back.


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