The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Does someone know of a good walk-through for replacing a U-joint seal?

I want to change the U-joint ball seal on my 1950 3100 3speed and like many I am a little nervous about the unknown. I'm really not sure what to expect working on this and not even sure how it all works. My main problem is the threaded collar behind the U-joint but the seal kit came with both so I figure I should just do both. Are there any good walk through instructions for this procedure? Also, is there anything else I should tackle while I have this apart? My rear diff was full to the top when I got the truck but has since stayed at the correct level so I don't think I need an Oakie bushing yet. The truck doesn't see much road time as it's more of a rat/parts truck so I don't plan to stick too much cash into it. Any good resources? I've tried Google and the search on here and didn't really find anything basic enough to give me the confidence to tackle it.

Thoroughly clean all metal parts, including the outer surface of the torque-tube drive-shaft "cover".

Carefully file/sand any non-smooth mating surfaces.

Carefully follow the procedure in the Shop Manual.

I've come across comments about having to "realign" things after taking the U-joint apart. Where does that come in?

Post a link to those comments - maybe we can then comment?

I have no idea where I read it but I think it had something to do with aligning the torque tube with the trans, maybe at the U-joint?

If your rear end was over full at one time and you have done nothing to correct it, it will likely repeat this phenomenon in the near future. The transmission supplies the universal joint with lubrication through the output shaft area. The only way this transmission oil can get into the rear end is through the front pinion seal. An Okie bushing/seal will fix this.
I suppose a guy could add gear oil to the transmission, and drain oil from the rear end on a weekly basis to keep everything operating properly.
Carl

The truck hadn't been on the road for at least 25 years before I got it. When I checked the diff it was over full with what looked like watery chocolate milk. I pulled the cover and cleaned/refilled when I started driving it this spring. I've been keeping an eye on it since then and it hasn't gone up since, so if it's leaking, it's a small leak. I initially looked into doing an Oakie bushing, but I think I'm going to put it off until the truck has proven itself a little more or it gets worse. I have since replaced the trans mount which I read was usually the cause of the worn bushing.
The frame is solid but beyond saving and the engine has a big crack down the water jacket. I initially planned to use to truck for parts but it ended up being a nice around town cruiser after a few repairs. I'm either going to part it for my restoration project or keep doing minor repairs to keep putting around but it's by no means going to be a high dollar restoration.

Zen,

I have an article with photos of a simple seal and bushing puller I made with hardware store items like a piece of allthread and a piece of pvc pipe. If you give me your email address I'd be glad to send it to you.

After pulling the original seal and bushing you have the option to use original replacement parts rather than an Oakie bushing. In my case, using a 1937 Chevy car rear axle to put 3.55 gears in a 1936 Chevy PU I was able to use a modern Timken seal.

I know you posted this awhile back, but if you still have the article, I'd appreciate seeing it. Please send to: [email protected]. Thanks.