For some reason my cab is about 1/4inch higher in the back on the passenger side. I didnt pay it much attention since I plan on doing a frame off restoration but know that i am about to start installing new floor and kick panels it has me a bit concerned. There is nothing obvious that is causing the difference as far as I can tell. Both rear fittings look the same with no apparent differences and there is nothing jammed between the cab and frame causing it to stand off. I was wondering if I started replacing the floor panels when it is like this if it would possibly throw off fitment of the doors later on? Would it be better to simply lower the passenger a 1/4 inch so it is level then proceed to replace the panels?
The mounting area on the back of the cab is likely failing due to rust. Replacement parts are available and you should do it when you do the floors.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Thanks for the input! I looked up the schackle kits and wow are they pricey!! 200 bucks!! and they aren't even the same design as the old ones. There is a salvage yard nearby that has a few old trucks being parted out I'll see if I can pull a couple off . Although I would still be replacing a 60+ year old part with another 60+ year old part!
Cab mount bushing/mounting kits are for the cab. $18.00 I got lucky- my cab was sitting on the frame on one side (actually dented the cab right there). Only thing wrong was the rear cab mount bushings were shot, and it needed to be shimmed to spec. If the rear mounting area is failing, you should be able to visual confirm that once the cab is off, right?
~ Dave 1950 Chevrolet 3600 3/4-ton with 261 engine & T5 Transmission
Jack up cab a little, take out all mounting hardware, spacers, rubber, springs if any and keep track of what goes where and you will see what has failed/disintegrated, missing, collapsed due to rust, etc. Then fix it, then patch. It's not obvious but obviously something is wrong, so that part is obvious.
Martin and Dave have already given the advice and info. I agree with all of it. As said, you said frame off (which is really cab off), so therefore you will be removing cab and will be replacing all cab mounts. Usually a "frame off" is more of a complete restoration not with junk yard parts?
Anyway the best approach to this crooked deal is to take a whole bunch of measurements BEFORE taking any thing apart.( Linear measurements, plumb, level and square measurements). Floor to chassis in several places. Chassis to cab in several places. Axle to frame/chassis in several places, front and rear. Write it all down with a sketch and take many pics of parts coming off and their hardware. You WILL forget if you don't. These measurements may identify what is crooked, sagging, broken, assembled wrong by previous owner and dog tracking.
ALWAYS state what truck we are talking about...year make model!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Carl, my cyber friend, I would like to learn what the heck that means...and I would like to know what truck this is. I think I can see the front drivers side cab mount collapsing and the rear passenger tilting up maybe, but don't get what spring shackles have to so with it? I do know that a leaf spring has a hard mounted hanger on one eye and a shackle on the other eye. The shackle "articulates"/rotates to allow for the increase in the springs length during flexing. So tie these things together to explain this 1/4" thing. Articulate the answer this time, buddy.
Carl, my cyber friend, I would like to learn what the heck that means...and I would like to know what truck this is. I think I can see the front drivers side cab mount collapsing and the rear passenger tilting up maybe, but don't get what spring shackles have to so with it? I do know that a leaf spring has a hard mounted hanger on one eye and a shackle on the other eye. The shackle "articulates"/rotates to allow for the increase in the springs length during flexing. So tie these things together to explain this 1/4" thing. Articulate the answer this time, buddy.
The OP included a pic of an AD cab showing the uneven gap to the frame. Whether it is a '47-'48, or a '49-'55.1, these two cab mounting systems have rear mounts which allows for substantial side-to-side leaning movement to keep the cabs from cracking from frame flex on uneven surfaces. The '49-'55.1 had shackles with rubber bushings for rear cab mounts and were far superior in allowing the side-to-side movement. (Who said anything about "spring shackles"?) Regardless of which year AD he has, a collapsed front cab support will cause the opposite side rear cab corner to rise. Carl right back atcha, friend
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Hey guys thanks for all the discussion pertaining to this. I just signed up on Stovebolt and this was my first post and will hopefully become better versed in the terminology and more detailed as my project progresses. I referred to the rear cab mounts as "shackles" only because that is what the vendor called them otherwise they were just rear cab mounts to me, albeit odd looking ones.
I never would have consider the condition of the front support effecting the rear of the cab but will definitely take a look at it in the morning. Unfortunately, I have not leveled the chasis and have simply been working on the disassembly with the tires still on the pavement. Prior to disassembly I did notice the passenger door was a difficult to close but didnt connect it to the possibility that the source of the uneven gap in the back could also be the cause of the door fitment.
I really appreciate everyones feed back. The only thing I regret about joining the website was not doing it before I laid a hand on the truck.
The truck is a 1950 3100 that I purchased a few months ago and have been slowly working on it when time permits.
Welcome to the 'bolt...Don't let the back-and-forth scare you off. Defining terms is part of the fun here. Some tackle it with more gusto than others and most of these guys have been bantering with each other for decades.
By the time all the fur settles, you'll have yourself a very thorough understanding of what to look for.
Consider writing up an intro post in the Welcome Center. You'll connect with lots of people who have gone through just about every situation you're about to encounter. Enjoy the ride!
Dongray, go back and "EDIT" your profile to include the vehicle you are working on. That way we will all know. It doesn't hurt to mention it each time you ask a question but if you forget we will have it in your signature line.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
