I just read the entire 4.10 thread that has been running and I'll admit I came out of that not knowing which end was up!
I have a '50 3800 dually that was a flatbed but only has frame right now.
Question: I realize I could find the 4.10 and pop that in there, but then I started seeing that a 14 bolt is a great alternative especially if brakes are needed. What I didn't catch anybody saying was how difficult and what is entailed in that swap? I'm the first to admit I don't know how to weld, so the 4.10 swap sang to me, but if the 14 bolt works with removing the entire rear end then bolting that on I'm game for that!
I also saw some comments about width, since I have no bed and intend on keeping it a flat bed, does it matter what 14 bolt I find as long as it's a dually or could this be the opportunity to consider switching to single?
Thanks, just want to make heads and tails of all this info!
The size of the can of worms is directly proportional to the amount of personal preference! You have to consider u-joint sizing and brake modification/repair/replacement as well, depending on how "right" you want to make it. Each comes with it's own list of instructions. Too many to list for each option. Mechanical aptitude required!
Some 14 bolts with duals are very wide, like modern dual pickup trucks. The "cab and chassis" 14 bolt with duals as they come, or singles if you want, is just right for an AD 1 ton, or 3/4 ton for that matter. Width is nominally 62.5" same as original single and dual.
Welding is required to reposition, or better yet replace, spring pads on axle.
Then you have brake choices. The deep dish drums that come on a C&C axle get very close to the AD rear springs, but they should fit and leave only enough room for U-bolts and very tight to reach bleeder screw.
You can swap shallow dish drums and use same backing plates and shoes as the axle comes with. This requires welding new flanges on the axle tube for new backing plate location.
In my opinion less desirable option is aftermarket brackets for using front rotors and calipers from a 4x4 pickup. You loose parking brake, or have to purchase expensive non spectacular calipers with parking brake.
Better disc option is swapping disc with internal parking from late model 1 ton. Also requires fabrication and welding of flanges on axle.
Either rear disc option should accompany front disc brakes.
yes and no.. The ones that come with that are newer enough to be called an AAM axle, they're more or less the later version of the old 14 bolt (which is more or less the newer version of the Eaton HO72). I'm not aware of an appropriate width AAM 10.5 or 11.5 axle as a direct replacement for the AD 1 ton Eaton axle.
This photo album covers my brain storming and research on 14 bolt C&C axles for AD trucks, alternate drum brakes, and late model disc with drum parking. Click the first photo and note the captions on each as you scroll through. Many of these photos were linked in discussion threads here but the links may have broken. https://goo.gl/photos/VHGjcnXSDBTZnhBB8
Also in there is a blueprint for the flange you'd need to make, and how to attach them, for adapting the late model disc to an older 14 bolt.
Thanks for the replies so far. I pulled the rear plate and checked for some ID marks. I found GM 7-36 and a 5 50. I would assume this is the standard rear end to these 3800?
I redid a 1953 Chevy 3800 from a dual wheel tilt bed to a step side 9 foot box in the end....here is the link to my photo bucket page that shows how I did mine...we ended up with 4.10 gears out of a 1985 Chevy (full size) Blazer and I added disc brakes to the front axle too...
