The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Valve Adjustment Question (Chevrolet 235ci)

Working on a 1962 Chevrolet 235 engine. I watched a Youtube video that explains you can put Cylinder #1 on TDC and then make the valve adjustments on Valve #s 1,2,3,5,7,9. Then put # 6 Cylinder on TDC and make adjustments on Valve #s 4,6,8, 10,11,12. I did #6 Cylinder TDC first and adjusted valves, now I've got Cylinder #1 TDC. Things worked fine for 6 TDC, but with Cylinder #1 on TDC, the Valves # 7 (intake) and # 9 (exhaust) I cannot get any space or play in there to make the adjustment, the push rods and the valve springs just keep going up up up when I loosen the lock nut and valve adjust screw. Is there some other technique I should be using?

Also, want to confirm this chart below is correct for 1962, 235ci Truck Engine:

Valves (from front of engine (water pump) going back to cab
1 - Exhaust
2 - Intake
3 - Intake
4 - Exhaust
5 - Exhaust
6 - Intake
7 - Intake
8 - Exhaust
9 - Exhaust
10 -Intake
11 - Intake
12 - Exhaust

Sincere thanks. Specifically, how to do adjustment on Valves 7 and 9 is needed, cannot get any play in them when #1 Cylinder is TDC.

That is correct:

http://www.1954advance-design.com/Web%20images/1958-60-rocker-oil/1960-3.jpg

What is the engine serial number that is stamped into the block to the rear of the distributor?

Many thanks Tim, so my engine I believe was a Dealer Rebuild out of California, as the Serial Number is polished away and it is re-stamped with a: "DR 155429 CAL"
The casting number on the engine block is: 3764476
The casting number on the head is: 3836848

Is there any chance you have hydraulic lifters?

Did you take any of the lifters out?

Sorta wondering that I might. When I took the valve cover off, All but 3 of the 12 valves were setup with 0 - (zero) lash. Would I need to strip the engine down to remove a lifter or? I can say that the heads of the lifters look different than what I've seen in the past on a 216 from 1948. The lifters on this engine look like they are - sleeved. The lifters on the 1948 216 that I took apart once, the lifters were 1 piece.

Wait to hear from other members.

I think you will have to take off the side cover and the valve cover.

You then might get away with:
Take off one of the rocker arm adjustment nuts and remove the adjustment screw.
You might then be able to lift out one of the push rods, and pull out one of the lifters.

The hydraulic lifter looks different from a mechanical lifter.
Let's hope another member will post how to ID the lifter (and post a link to a photo.

Hope also that another member will describe a clear/easier way to definitively ID a hydraulic lifter.
I'll apologize in advance for this rambling response.

Worst case scenario is that you will have to remove the rocker arm assembly, pull a lifter, and inspect the top of the lifter.

Here is valve lifter ID info, complements of Pre '68 Dave.

Let's hope Dave checks in and makes this simple.

Hmmm....the chart goes up to 1960, I have a '62 engine. In the web searches I've done, seems all the Hydrualic Lifters have a clip (circlip) in the top of them. Mine do not have that. The Mechanical Lifters & Hydraulic look almost the same from the outside, with the exception of those circlips at the top. Just not sure if that applies to 1962 vintage or not?

Here is a pic of one of my lifters

Weren't all 62's hydraulic lifter? This was the last year for the 235.🛠

The simple way to identify a hydraulic lifter involves doing nothing more than removing the valve cover. Turn the engine clockwise from the front until the #6 exhaust valve spring is fully compressed (last one closest to the firewall). Continue rotating the engine until the exhaust spring relaxes and the #6 intake rocker arm (Next one in line) just begins to move.Go to either one of the #1 cylinder rocker arms and put a firm downward pressure on the side of the rocker with the adjusting screw in it with a long screwdriver or a pry bar under the rocker arm pivot shaft. If a hydraulic lifter is involved the gap betweem the rocker arm and the valve stem will open up to 1/8" or more within a couple of minutes of holding pressure against the lifter. The lifter will pump back up as soon as the engine is started. No rocker arm movement after a couple of minutes indicates you've got solid lifters.
Jerry

I think the picture clearly shows it as a solid lifter.

Thanks, wolffcub

Justhorsenaround, all car 235 engines from 1956 onwards had hydraulic lifters. All years truck 235 engines had mechanical/solid lifters.

From 1958 onwards, all 235 blocks were drilled for hydraulic lifters, but trucks still used mechanical/solid lifters.

Thanks Tim.👍🏻

I've heard the car engines were, but not the trucks, only some of them. Can you tell from the pic above, if that is Mechanical or Hydraulic?

" . . . , only some of them [were]"

some of what were what?

some lifters on truck engines were hydraulic?
or
some truck engine (58-63) were set up for hydraulic lifters (but no truck engine had hydraulic lifters from the factory)?

Someone might have put hydraulic lifters in 1958 and later truck engine, but not the factory.

wollfcub ID'd the lifter in your photo as being solid/mechanical.

Many thanks!

What year did they stop using the milk can shaped solid lifters?

I have no idea, guessing late 50s early 60s? Also, as Tim mentioned above, the other thing to consider, someone could have replaced the lifters at any time over the last 40 or 50 years, whether that be with solid (mechanical) or hydraulic.