The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Interior paint

I'm gearing up to paint the interior of my AD 49 3/4 ton. The former painted the dash, window trims and the heater orange. It looks like a good job and the paint doesn't seem to be cracking or pealing. My question is, do I need to strip it off or can I paint over it. It doesn't have a clear coat.

Any help would be great.

Don

Scuff, seal, and paint.

I understand scuff but what is seal? Primer?

Don

That right there is the best "dumb" question ever asked since the beginning of time!
I never understood what a "seal coat" consists of either.
Thank you for asking that question so that I am not the "dumb" guy (even though since I just posted this, I am indeed the other "dumb" guy).
Carl

The reducers in paint are able to react with the old paint or sometimes even you high build primers and melt it.
That leads to adhesion failure.
Your remedy is sealer coat.
Usually just a very thin/reduced coat of epoxy.

Caso to the rescue of the short bus!
Thank you.

So scuff, spray on some reduced epoxy, skip the primer and paint?

Don

Prep is prep.
If your going for best practice then stip off everything down to fresh metal.
Apply 2 -3 coats epoxy.
Do any filler/high build work needed to get your surface as perfect as your needs require.
A coat of sealer just before painting does two things.
Seals the layers below from moisture.
Provides a chemical bond for the paint to lock onto BESIDES the physical bond to the small scratches left from the scuff pad.
If your really serious check out "the perfect paint job" thread over at
link to SPI

Well Caso that's a bit too much for this truck. Not a frame off and I didn't buy it solely to work on it. It's in really "good" shape but all I want to do is make the paint stick. I also don't want to do too much so future owners won't have a mess on their hands.

Then sand it down with 80g as far as you need to get it as smooth as you need.
As long as the paint that's there isn't coming off and your not hiding rust (even on the edges) then just work off that.
Only reason for a sealer now is to keep your volatiles in your fresh paint from reacting with your old paint.
A quick test of your new paint in an inconspicuous spot will tell you if you even need to worry about it.
If your old paint lifts easily you'll have a clue as to it's long term properties I guess and the make decisions from there.

Don't think I need 80 grit. It's smooth as a babies butt. I was more concerned with excessive layer build up. I'm going to scuff seal and paint.

Thx Don

I see guys painting cars with Plast-dip now. I can't wrap my mind around that. I'll bet it covers well, though.... I just sprayed some Commercial Performance Coating ALK and that stuff is thick as molasses and seems to cover very well. Not sure what it would be like painting an entire truck with it though. It's a Urethane paint. I use it for trim items.

CASO, are you talking about 80 grit on a DA sander? Because that is a much more uniform finish than hand sanding metal with 80 grit...

Laos curious why the sealer coat epoxy is reduced instead of just shooting it straight- is that to get it to cure faster, or to simply make the epoxy go a little bit further?

The sealer coat of reduced epoxy will lie down and off gas quicker than straight epoxy.
Epoxy will act like double sided scotch tape for your paint.
Sticks to both better!

On a side note I needed a 17mm wrench and popped onto O'Reillys yesterday.
They had 1on the shelf.
Ran my thumb across the box end and felt a bit of a bump.
The *Chrome plastic dip started coming off in strips.
FYI

Oh my.......

Thanks for explaining CASO.

Actually this post was ment for all.
Well I purchased my paint from one of the online classic groups. No reducer or hardener was offered. Went to Napa and they matched me up perfectly.

Two and a half days of prep and masking and it's done. Bye bye orange dash. Hello stock color Champagne.

This has been a great learning experience and I'm finding out, I may like body work after all.

Thanks for all the advise

Don

Don,

Some members might appreciate seeing a link to a few photos of your interior. Also, some members might appreciate the seller's name and part number (and a link to the item, if on-line).

Congratulations, and, thanks.

Can we post links to Vimeo and YouTube? How about Facebook.

Prolly never going to use foe toe bucket.

Wasn't sure I could call out suppliers by name.

Thx Don

You can link to YouTube don't know about Vimeo some have done Facebook links but I think it makes you log in to see the image. Have you read the new image posting policy at the bottom left of this forum page?🛠

I have posted links to videos on Vimeo.

https://vimeo.com/36932096

Martin
Thanks for your response and all you guys thanks. I have looked at the image posting policy. It's just not something I want to put any effort into. I'm busy with my 49, work, family, paramotor flying and high end woodworking for a few people. I'm also putting enough personal information on the web at this time. If I were doing a frame up resto, maybe. But I've really got nothing much people haven't seen a million times.

Thanks Don

I would be interested to hear about your experience with interior paint suppliers for when I get to that point. I'm not there, it's up around the bend. But always good to know for when it does come along.

Might be a bit late for this post but here's my before and after interior pictures after painting with PPG Industrial Paint. I used the right inside side vent cover plate (it didn't look like it was to faded) and had it a scanned and a custom mix done. I didn't get a formula for the paint, It's just labeled Chevy Gray!. I added 1 oz of xylene to the paint in the spray cup and mixed it up and painted in my garage last winter. A couple of ceramic heaters overnight under the truck covered with a parachute tent to get the metal nice and warm and I think it looks pretty good.
I took the left over remaining paint and had the shop fill 12 rattle cans enough to do a couple of more trucks!
Cheers

Some would say that your paint color isn't right based on your pictures. Problem is, the original color has chameleon properties to it. It changes based on the light source and the angle at which you view the panels.
I "know" what looks right to me, and you "know" what looks right to you. The great folks at AACA can't agree on what is the "right" color, so that leaves us with choosing what WE like and be happy.
Carl

You can say/post that again, Carl ("third time's the charm").

The VCCA folks/fools are as clueless as the AACA folks with regards to interior and engine paint-codes/colors, for those who care (not me).

"Do what you like . . . "

Thanks
Both you and Tim are bang on with the comments.
The posted pictures were taken with flash in a enclosed garage with florescent light When all the door and headliner panels were installed it totally changed the look again especially when outside in the sun.
https://photos.google.com/album/AF1...ipNEexCo36IhoFXl_T34PCsdB1uy9iBG6_VbHaMh

I think that it looks pretty good but bottom line is it is what I like and that's all that matter if someone doesn't like it they can show me a lot of money and they can do what they want with it.
Cheers

Well come on up to Homecoming and you can pick on my stuttering in person...
Lugnutz is my only convoy-from-the-south teammate so far.