The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
9 - 11 Memorials

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
4 members (baldeagle, Joe H, Bill Hanlon, Jon G), 118 guests, and 4 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,014
Posts1,055,333
Members48,419
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#122859 11/06/2006 4:51 AM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
Can anyone advise on installing patch panels? I am installing cab corners (inner and Outer) rockers, inner and outer cowl and floor panels (with toe). Also Front body mounts.

The PO did a lot of work on the rotted floor and inner cowl and foot wells. Not good work mind you. So I have a mess of rust and rot holes with sheet metal welded over them making the work all that much harder.

I have welded the rear inner corners, tacked the outer corners and welded the rear part of the rockers in place. Now I am in a quandry. As I look at the cowl and floor I cannot decide what sequence to cut out and install the new patches. I am thinking the floor should come first, then inner cowl and do the outer inner to outer cowl and outer cowl last.

I have looked at Chuck the Truck's web site which is a great site, and I have Brownell's book but neither of these gives this detail.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Rich


1953 3/4-Ton Chevy

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix

If it can be built ... It can be fixed.

RB53
#122860 11/06/2006 12:41 PM
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 662
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
C Offline
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 662
Thanks for the compliment. Sounds like you have the sequence right. Or, at least the way I did it.

#122861 11/06/2006 5:44 PM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,513
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,513
If you mount the doors you will be able to tell where the pillar/outer cowl belong based on door gap. Make sure the outer cowl fits the door good as well as the fender and make everything else conform to that. The order doesn't matter as much as not losing shape; I did my floors last. Good Luck.

Curt B.
http://community.webshots.com/user/curt160


1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod
You Tube
#122862 11/06/2006 7:53 PM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 204
C
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
C Offline
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 204
Listen to I. B Hoggin, mount your doors then work on the pillar / outer cowl for marking your door gap. I didn't and now am paying the price of cutting it all back apart.

Just make sure if you are doing the entire floor at once that you brace everything to keep the cab from tweaking.

Good Luck!

#122863 11/06/2006 9:49 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
Thanks Guys,
I didn't even consider the fender. I mounted the doors syesterday to get a feel for where the rocker should be and to get a look at the inner part of the post where it meets the door. I stiched the inner part of the post to the rocker based on the gap. I have no idea if it is right.

I do have another post about door adjustment that no one has responded to. How accurate (can)do the door adjustments need to be for this fit. (especially with no weather strip??)

I know I need to do some hinge work. My passenger side is pretty good the drivers side is a little sloppy.

Any rebuild kits or ideas for these??

I have never had good luck with doors. I could spend an hour adjusting a door and get nowhere. My brother could adjust a door in 10 seconds with a 2x4 and a twist of the wrist and it would work and look better then new. Too bad I don't have his help anymore.

Rich


1953 3/4-Ton Chevy

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix

If it can be built ... It can be fixed.

RB53
#122864 11/06/2006 10:28 PM
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,458
4
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
4 Offline
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,458
Rebuild the hinges before you fit the doors, other wise they won't fit after you do it. Doors are tough. The factory assembly manual is a good resource.


Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic.
#122865 11/06/2006 10:34 PM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,513
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,513
I would rebuild your hinges first. Most vendors have a pin/bushing kit. Then just put all the door adjusting bolts in the middle of thier travel range and then snug them. Then make sure you have about 3/16" gap all around before welding. Final adjustment and hinge bending can come later.

Curt B.


1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod
You Tube
#122866 11/07/2006 12:08 PM
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 662
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
C Offline
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 662
Weatherstrip changes door fit. It can look great without it, then with wstrip installed it looks like heck.


Moderated by  klhansen 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0