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BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
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7 members (Fifty-Five First, Peggy M, Bill Hanlon, Guitplayer, cspecken, Lightholder's Dad, JW51),
549
guests, and
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Global Mod,
Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,781 Posts1,039,301 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 1,972 Big Bolt Forum Co-moderator | Big Bolt Forum Co-moderator Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 1,972 | I have all my rotten metal replaced with solid metal now and straightened the panels. I am ready to sand the bare metal and apply body filler to get the imperfections flush. What grit sand paper do I use to prep for primer? I did a search on the internet and saw 80 grit mentioned. Is that what most guys use?
This is my first project truck, I have done some work on restoring my antique tractor so I am very inexperienced. On the tractor I used epoxy primer and enamel tractor paint from AGCO on that project. Any good references on painting would be very helpful. A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired. 1948 Chevy 2-Ton | | | | Joined: Oct 2015 Posts: 338 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2015 Posts: 338 | The Technical Data sheets for every product you want to use are on the internet. I am not trying to be a smart [censored]... but every product on the market publishes their technical advise to avoid failures. My recommendation is read them a couple of times, fully understand them before using them. If you are still not sure, contact the manufacturer with your concerns. They want you to have a successful result.
Having said that, bare steel with a "tooth" for body filler to adhere to is a good thing. 80 grit seems pretty coarse, but again, the TDS will advise.
You didn't ask, but I will mention anyway... "tightly adhered" coatings do NOT need to be removed. Painting over existing, tightly adhered coatings is perfectly acceptable. No need to remove all the coatings to prime and paint.
Last edited by FootStomper; 08/05/2017 3:04 AM.
| | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Excellent advice: find and read the product sheets. | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | Also be aware metal sands different to paint and fillers. Duh I mean, Used paper may get your surface rough enough when sanding paint. But use fresh paper on metal so you get proper surface prep for your primer. If you have a good magnifying glass you can see the difference in the scratch depths. It's like traction for tires...lugs or slicks One you fight to make stick The other fights to hold on
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
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