The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Setting distributor for intial starting

58 GMC truck with 270 upgraded to 302.
Where should the distributor be set for the initial break in on the engine? Or is that something that I will just have to find by moving the distributor a little at a time?

Thanks

I generally static set at 5 before on almost every engine before the first start up. Then use a light to bring it to factory specs once the carbs and everything else are smoothed out and the engine will idle around 800 rpms.

I have the #1 piston at tdc.I am referring to installing the dizzy initially to start the engine.I realize that if the distributor isn't set correctly it won't start.

Install the distributor so that the rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire.

The wires should be clockwise 1-5-3-6-2-4.
The engine should start with a #1 cylinder/plug firing at TDC setting.

I also have a vacuum gauge connected to the intake-to-wiper vacuum line (if you have that port under the carburetor). When the engine starts, you will want to adjust timing and carburetor-mixture to obtain maximum vacuum (these are not perfect settings, but the engine should run smoothly). You might have an electric wiper, and might not have a vacuum port?

The #1 cylinder comes to TDC twice- - -once on the compression stroke and again one turn later when the exhaust valve is closing and the intake is beginning to open. Be sure #1 is on the compression stroke with both valves closed, install the distributor with the rotor pointing to the #1 plug wire, and turn the housing clockwise until the points close. Then turn back CCW until they just barely open and lock the housing down. The ignition timing will be close enough to get the engine started. Once the engine starts, bring the speed up to a fast idle and tinker with the timing until you get the smoothest run- - - - -usually somewhere in the 10-15 degree advance range.

If you're breaking in a fresh rebuild with a new camshaft, run the engine for 20-30 minutes at a fast idle to establish the proper running relationship between the cam and lifters before doing much low speed idling. I use a big squirrel cage blower in front of the radiator during a break-in run to keep things cool.
Jerry

And don't forget to prime the oil system before you put the distributor back in if you are about to break in the cam.
You can ask me how I now that, but I will just lie to you and pretend that I just read about it somewhere...
Carl

I primed the oil system with a screwdriver in a cordless drill.I know I am getting fuel to the carb.I have Langdons HEI ignition& coil set up. It tried but didn't start. So I guess I need to fiddle with the distributor while attempting to start it.I put it back at TDC before I stopped tonight. And it only has headers at the moment, til I can drive it to have a new exhaust system installed.

Do all the usual diagnostic checks, like someone brought you a running engine that wouldn't start.
Use a timing light to see if #1 fires close to the timing mark when it's cranked.
Look into the carb and open the throttle 2-3 times to see if there is a good squirt from the pump.
Look at the vacuum gauge to make sure there isn't a big vacuum leak, or the cam is off by a tooth.
And so on.

I had done all of the above. I put a jumper on the fuel pump and was able to get it to start; broke in the engine for 20mins today. Found out the EZ WIRING fuse block does not have full power.