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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 110 Member | | Member Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 110 | Working on the floor of my 38 today. Drilled out the spot welds on one side of the seat base and used a standard stiff putty knife and ball peen hammer to seperate the pieces. Occured to me to skip the drill and just try the putty knife on the other side. Popped them all loose and with no holes to weld!
Jim
Good luck with your project!
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | Those must have been some weak old welds.
Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2000 Posts: 804 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2000 Posts: 804 | Yeah, those were FLAWED welds. Don't try that with good ones you will distort and tear your metal all to hell.
Brian
1948 Chevy Pickup
Chopped and sectioned
owned since 1974 when I was 15.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 110 Member | | Member Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 110 | I have to agree with you two to a certain extent. The welds were well spaced out and not very large in diameter. They were in good shape though as there is almost no rust on this cab. This might not work in most situations, but it did work in this case. I looked at the fusion point of the weld and it varys from about 1/16th to a little larger in diameter. I was not very agressive, just a couple of light smacks. I looked through my body shop catalog this morning and found a "panel seperating knife". I also did a little research on the internet this morning and see that most modern cars appear to have larger spotwelds that are much closer together then my 38. Sheet metal on newer vehicles may be a little thinner too?
Jim
Good luck with your project!
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