The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Chevrolet 235 Engine Rebuild

Hello Stovebolt Members:
I am in the process of rebuilding a Chevrolet 235 cu. in. engine for replacement of the 216 that is in my 1938 chevrolet truck. Some time ago I saw a post that a member has the tooling to drill the end of the crankshaft for the harmonic balance pulley unit, and believe that a person can purchase the tooling.
I am new to the web site and cannot find the article regarding this issue, and while on the subject, will try and post a couple of pictures of the engine rebuild. https://www.dropbox.com/s/izq0apmtgf8wjrx/1938%20Chevy%20Truck%20003.jpg?

Contacted Hotrod Lincoln and kit is ordered. Thank you for the help.

I think you're talking about "Hotrod Lincoln"

Your link for your pictures isn't working...

You have enough posts now to PM other members. Send Hotrod Lincoln a message and he will be happy to fill you in.🛠

Dave,

What a great looking project you have shared with the rest of us. I am very close to cleaning and repainting my frame, axels, leaf springs, etc.. I would like to know the media you used in blasting your frame and the prep afterward including what the final coating is. My frame should not be hard to get down to bare metal because it was cleaned and primed a number of years back. I am considering using POR-15 to coat the frame, leaf springs, axles, etc..

Thanks for your help.

John

Make sure you read the instructions on using POR15 on smooth clean metal. I think it likes and needs the metal to be rusty or sand blasted to get it to bond correctly.

Mike B

Thanks John.

I first power washed the frame a couple of times, then used 60/80 Garnet blast media, then used the POR15 degreaser and then the POR15 Metal etch, following the instructions very carefully. The POR15 was then brushed on. the metal flash rusted ever so slightly after washing the acid etch off and letting it dry, but I wasn't too worried about that.

I accidentally hit the frame with a hammer (pretty hard) while attempting to remove the front leaf spring bushings, and was surprised that it did not have any affect on the paint...hopefully the rest of the frame is bonded just as well. I was able to recycle the Garnet media at least 5-6 times. I paid $15 for each 45 lb bag. The worst part was when I was under the frame and I spilled about a cup of paint on my chest.... then my arms, neck, etc... I looked like a coal miner for about a week!

Dave,

Thanks for answering my questions. I hear that POR-15 will stay around for a while if you get it on you. I plant to purchase a couple of Tyvek suits, disposable gloves and throw-away brushes when I do my applications. Really like the way your frame turned out. Did you also paint your leaf springs and axels with POR-15?

John

Hey Mike,

Just read the response to my question(s) to Dave. He mentioned his frame flash rusting after washing off the metal etching.

John

Bit off topic aren't we? Makes it hard when someone searches "235 Engine Rebuild" and they get information on coating a frame. Private Messages are a good alternative for these off topic discussions.

OK Martin. Thanks for the hand slap. Will take this conversation elsewhere. Meant to cause no harm and sorry if I conversed in an inappropriate way and did not follow some rule I was not aware of. Will work REALLY hard not to do that again. Stand corrected.

Have a good day.

PM sent. A thousand pardons to all....

Thanks Martin for getting the original post/topic back on track for me. I have acquired a 235 cu in engine to replace the old 216 that is in my old truck, and was told that it came out of a mid fifties pickup. I have taken all the forging/stamped numbers that I can find off the parts and wonder if these are the original pieces that came on this engine, or have some of them been replaced along the way. The part numbers are as follows:
Engine block: F617H [should be engine serial number]
CON 4
F 117 (= June 11, 1957)?
3837004 (= 1955 - 1957)? [should be block casting code]
GM 12

Engine cylinder head: CON 9
3836848
GM 14

Intake manifold: GM 3836922

Exhaust manifold: 3885587
GM 25

Distributor: 1112403 (I hope that this is a 12 volt, as the plan is to convert the truck to 12 volt system)?

Solid lifter valve train?

I have been reading much of the information on this web site, and sometime back remember reading an article on decifering these numbers, but am not experienced enough to find previous articles that now are important. I made an assumption on the years listed above. Thank you in advance for any comments.
Brian


I must apologize for not seeing the post this morning, outlining some of the numbers that I have listed above. Some of the part numbers and their meaning that I have listed are explained, but some of the part numbers I still am not sure of.

The distributor works happily on either voltage- - - - -there is a difference in the height of the rotor and the distributor cap, so be sure to get the correct cap and rotor for the distributor you have. I believe the height of the center shaft is different also, so it's possible the cap & rotor need to be sourced by using the dizzy part number as a guide.

Here's a specification page that lists that part number for a 1959 application (there may be others) which would indicate it uses the tall cap and rotor.

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/1959-chevrolet-235-135hp-6-distributor-specs.cfm

Edit: The CCW rotation info on that page is wrong- - - - -all stovebolt distributors rotate CW! The vacuum advance turns the distributor HOUSING CCW to advance the timing.

Jerry