The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Turn Signal Switch

I am in the need for a complete turn signal switch that connects to the steering wheel column .

I would like your opinions on whats the best one to buy and anything good or bad concerning putting one on and what I may run into by doing so that would help me before hand.

Basically there are 2 different ones from the aftermarket. One is like the ones used on large trucks. The other one is smaller & has an old patina look to it. Although the big one is better I like the small one as it looks better on the old truck. It is cheaper also. Not many of the specialty suppliers have the small one anymore but Speedway Motors still does. They come with directions & scematic. If you want your rear turn signals to go with the stop lights you will need a 6 or 7 wire switch. If you get a 4 wire switch you need separate lights in the rear for stop & turn lights. Sometimes you can find one on an old car/truck in the salvage yard but the wiring is hard to figure out as they all use different color sceams. Some of the old ones had a little rubber wheel that rolls on the hub & cancels the switch after the turn.
George

If you look on Ebay you will see under: "vintage turn signal switch", many examples. Choose the one you like. Most popular is Signal Stat 900 or equivalent. New or used vintage. Clamps to column. Wiring is pretty simple. You need turn signal lamps at front and rear. Either new aftermarket, lamps from a donor vehicle or change your lamps to dual contact/dual filament sockets, a dash indicator (the Sig Stat has one built in)...and of coarse install an inline flasher relay. You will have self cancelling. The self is yourself.
1940 had optional turn sig with dual filament using the parking lamps in front and tail lights in rear.
Kits are available. Some don't use a column switch.

Bartamos.. thanks a bunch

I doubt many drivers on the road today even know what the hand signals mean ,,and that right there makes me nervous as heck ,,so sooner I get some working the better,,

I am wanting to put dual filament in my rear tail lights and then buy the front ones and mount them from the bumper..I will need help with the wiring ,,is there a "search" here on the forum about how to get this done? ---Self cancelling--,,I am bad at that.. I used to tell my dad to turn off the blinkers and now I am being told..

I believe "Signal-Stat" is the go to switch. If you troll the usual places you can find N.O.S. from guys who purchased them long ago and never installed. Did that myself and it looks like it was installed in the early 50's. Someone around here might give a used one up for the shipping. Like everything else..avoid offshore.

The Switch will have color coded wires and a diagram if you buy new, if used, post the model and we will help you google. Generally it's 7 wires as George says.
1. Fr Left lamp
2. Fr Right lamp
3. RR left lamp
4. RR right lamp
5. To brake light sw output
6. To Flasher P (pilot/indicator) 3 prong flasher
7. To Flasher L (load)
Third flasher pin "X" to fused hot
Brake light Sw has a fused hot input
Which brings up that you need fuses for almost EVERYTHING on that truck. Old method uses no fuses. New modern method uses fuses and fusible links.

The brake light switch has to run thru the Turn sig switch so one side can be shut off during turn, otherwise it won't blink because blink and stop are on the same filament if you use one bulb.
Original tail light wiring is generally left in place on truck. You will bundle/tie wrap/sleeve down the column thru firewall and route to lamps. Lots of wire along, under and thru chassis.
Be sure all components are 6V compatible.

Sometimes one needs to incorporate single digit gesticulation in an obscene manner to enforce the normal "hand signals."
Carl

I am getting it all summed up from all the good advice above.......thank you very much

I need a Signal Stat turn Signal

I need a inline flasher relay

I need two front turn signal lights

I need a fuse block to mount under the dash for the buss fuses and relay flasher

I need dual filaments for my two tail lights I have now which is stock 1939 Chevy Sedan tail lights


I will need some 12 gu stranded wire ,,will measure after figuring out the runs to the lights ,ect ect

My 39 is changed over to 12 volt

______________________________________________________

I was thinking of running the wires down the out side of the steering wheel and to the fuse block and then on to thru the floor board to the motor area and then on to the 4 different lights .. any thoughts on doing this? I already have a sleave that has wires in it that runs from down the stearing post support to the floor.

I want small turn signal lights for the front ,I would mount them to the front bumper braces..Or ? got any favorites to share with me? again any thoughts appreciated

Don't know the structure of 1939 Truck. Someone with that era will help with wire route. 12 Ga is too big. 14-16. A guide and Wire

I wrote a tech tip on this subject.

Thx a lot Cletis;

Do you know if the Signal Stat 900 is made up both ways? ,,,,,,6 volt and 12 volt

as I have a complete 12 volt system .

If it were my truck and wanted small obscure front turn indicators I would look at "Visibolts". They replace the bumper bolts and have LED's inbedded in the center of the bolt. I mount them on my original prewar cars because I insist on turn signals and the judges ding you for non original stuff. They will act as both parking lights and turn indicators with a additional inexpensive small device wired inline. I've had inspectors at the NSRA shows ask where my front turn lights are. After turning them on they say "now that's neat". They can be had in 6 or 12 volt and both positive and negative ground.
No, I don't have any association with the company.

Beltfed

I bet I would like them on your cars as they are unique and I do like unique and different.

But ever since I seen them motorcyle ones that are chrome and have the same shape as my headlight buckets,,and are small ,,I can't seem to find another style I like better,,my 39 is past being original ,,my 71 I try and stay original.

But if some of you can share some you like ,I sure will look at them ,

The turn switch will work on either 6 or 12 volts. The only difference is the indicator light bulb. If you run 6 volts & are going to use the ind. in the switch, you will need to change the bulb.

bartomos

thx again for the wire sizes ,,them are good to have for both my truck and car,,I have copied these sizes to my car and truck info

wrenchbender retires,, thx for the advice about the wire size.. I wasn't thinking when I said 12 guage.. my brain got into house wiring for a bit,, glad the switch is 6 volt or 12 volt

I will try and find wire that looks like the wire already in my car and would like to copy it all the way thru..

if i could find this striped wire in colors that would be even better..

Here is a photo of the wire that I have
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/...%20Album/20170607_171346_zpshxbxlhau.jpg

I also would suggest fusing the lead from the power to the flasher hot. Not to every lead / light. Not needed. 14 gauge if truck is big with long wheel base. But most likely 16 would be plenty.

52vff

I will be mounting a fuse block somewhere for this turn signal switch system . a hot lead to it would be about 6 feet..and my guess is that from the fire wall to the rear tail light on the passenger side is no more than 15 feet by routing it under along the frame . and then from the one tail light to the other would be another 6 feet maybe.

On my 53 3100 I took a turn signal mech. off a 57 truck. I bought 2 switches and 2 wheels for $40. They are all 2" tubes. I bought a new internal switch for $30. You need the 57 wheel to fit the upper case on the signal. The 57 wheel is dished and the 53 wheel is flat so I had the tube cut off 4 inches and 4 inch sections cut out of the middle of the shaft and rewelded. That cost $40. When it's all done it looks totally factory. It's also self canceling

I need to let some of you know that I am needing this turn signal switch for a 1939 Chevy Master 2 door sedan.. I bought it last fall ,,I had owned one many many years ago when I was 19 years old,, I have wanted another for years and had to wait until I retired to afford one..

I see some of you think it is a truck ,,I do have a truck and it is a 1971 which is within the rules to belong to this forum..which I appreciate more every day I belong ,,great bunch of guys and much much help..

Just wanted to clear this up as I mean no disrespect to this forum knowing this is a truck forum.. much of my 39 Car is like a truck as far as I can tell by looking at them at car and truck shows..hope I am not treading where I should not be.. thx all for the help ,,but will understand if I am out of bounds ,,I of course would have to search for another source of help with my 39 car and as you all know ,,there is none other out there like this one .

Although some of our members feel it's perfectly fine to post car questions in the truck forums others feel it's not ok. To be safe post your car questions in the Greasy Spoon and mention it is a car. Most of the group here glance at the "Spoon" so you should get the same answers that you would get in the truck forums. Just a friendly suggestion.🛠

Martin.. thx for the friendly advice ,,

Here is what is happening ,,I posted about my brake problems in the Greasy Spoon and it got moved to the drive line forum ,,so I thought it would be okay to post this in the electrical forum. I wasn't sure where I should post.. I blame no one.. because it is me that has a car in a truck forum.

What I realize now is that I am breaking the rules and need to go elsewhere for my 39 Chevy car for help..

I am not leaving mad by no means ,, I have met some great people here and got a whole lot of help with my 39 car..but I don't want to cause any problems with a great forum just for me.. I have my 71 Chevy Truck and it is within the rules .

There is no need for any more discussion on this matter , as far as for me . I will fix it by bowing out.. again I am as happy as can be with each and every ones advice I have gotten . My 39 Chevy Master 2 Sedan loves every one of you that has helped her..

Sorry to see you go over such a simple fixable matter.🛠

It is recommended that posters always state the make, model, year of their vehicle.

Moderators might move a post to a more appropriate forum, following forum/"house" rules.

Sorry this did not work for you. Feel free to come back.

I feel its OK to post about an old chev. car on this website.
Like you say its just like the trucks & is still a Stovebolt.
This is a good forum for advise. There are a lot of nowledgable people on it. (some can spell too.)
When they start posting about foreign vehicles that's when I feel its not OK.
George

Your car questions are safe here... but, you might want to try and keep the questions generic.

I miss my 39 Coupe.

Whew ! So glad you answered with this reply Rusty Rod the moderator.. I am blessed to have been invited to stay in the forum .. I Sure would of missed a lot of the members I have had the pleasure to read their replies and their stories and of course their knowledge they share with us all..

I will identify my 1939 Chevy Sedan at the beginning of any questions about it from now on..

Rusty Rod,, there is a 1939 Chevy Coupe for sale on Craigs List of Boise Idaho ,,it's a convertable to be re-topped.

This car/ truck thing has been discussed before. Most of us don't give a hoot. It's an old Chevy that needs help to get it on the road and that's where we want to see them.
Mike53...did you cut and reweld your steering shaft? In the hot rod world that is considered a no-no if not done correctly. You put that weld in shear using it in such a way. Yeah, it is done, but by someone who machines the ends in such a way as to make it super strong after welding. A butt weld don't get it. Nothing personal, just trying to keep everyone safe.