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#1219160 05/29/2017 5:10 PM
Joined: Jan 2011
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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My old GMC doesn't want to run. It's an all stock '51 228 that ran fine last year. I'm getting decent spark and it will run briefly, better/longer if I put my hand over the carb but then it sputters out. I don't know what to check on next. Any ideas for me as to how to proceed?
Thanks


1951 GMC 250 Open Express
1968 C10 Suburban
1971 C20 Pickup

My Dad told me "Son, never hit a man in anger- unless you're certain you can get away with it"
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 631
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Sat for a period of time? Sounds like gas gone bad and crap is plugging or restricting the jets and passage ways. Also same bad gas and stuff in the fuel pump and fuel filter.

So check for fuel delivery ( pressure and volume) to the carb. Then move to the carb itself if the supply is good.

Last edited by showkey; 05/29/2017 10:26 PM.
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'Bolter
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It ran last summer but over the winter the last bit of fuel leaked out the petcock on the bottom of the tank. I'll check for fuel flow to the carb-
It has the factory type metal fuel line, where do people put an inline filter (and maybe a fuel pressure gauge) on them? Just cut the steel line and scab it in I suppose--- Also, is rebuilding the fuel pump the way to go?
Thanks again


1951 GMC 250 Open Express
1968 C10 Suburban
1971 C20 Pickup

My Dad told me "Son, never hit a man in anger- unless you're certain you can get away with it"
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
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Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
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Posts: 5,096
Fuel pump pressure testers will tell about the fuel pump. Can cut line and install filter.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
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'Bolter
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The stock 228 carb has a fine mesh filter built into the carb housing. If you have a rusty line or rusty tank that filter could easily be blocked. You servic ethe filer under the big nut.

When I rebuilt my engine I purchased a new pump with a built in filter bowl as a precaution. If you this type of filter integrated into the pump it's another place to check for low or no fuel delivery.

Last edited by showkey; 05/31/2017 2:08 PM.
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'Bolter
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I guess I'll cut the metal line down low before the pump and put a filter there. I unhooked the line right before the carb and stuck a bottle over the end. 20 cranks of the engine only resulted in 2 tablespoons of fuel so I ordered a new fuel pump.
I'll pull the big nut and check the filter just because also.


1951 GMC 250 Open Express
1968 C10 Suburban
1971 C20 Pickup

My Dad told me "Son, never hit a man in anger- unless you're certain you can get away with it"
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 631
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 631
Just confirm the line from the tank to the pump is not plugged with rust or sediment. The petcock on the bottom of the tank is a common blockage point.

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'Bolter
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It is alive. New fuel pump did the trick.
After I pulled it off I operated the plunger and was surprised at how much fuel came out and how far it flew. My uncle claimed that the plunger doesn't move as far normally as it would if I were pushing on it. Seems like he's correct. I cleaned the lines and changed all the flexible lines and clamps. Found an old glass bowl filter and was ready to install it but found the edge of the bowl is chipped. Swap meet this weekend so I'll check there before I order one.
Thanks again Greg


1951 GMC 250 Open Express
1968 C10 Suburban
1971 C20 Pickup

My Dad told me "Son, never hit a man in anger- unless you're certain you can get away with it"

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