The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 216 manifold gasket replacement

I'v fort this trouble with ex. leak after many years, and won't tighten any mo. Even put a new manifold on.Having fought this SO many times.I want to put 2 gaskets on, but it only leaks a little.....Any thoughts on this problem? And do I need new sleeves for alignment?? Thanks, You Guys are always there for us. Paul

The head and the manifold must be flat where they meet. If you've been dealing with a chronic leak, I]m going to guess that one or both surfaces need to be planed. Hold a long straight edge like a carpenter's square against the head ports, and try to slip a feeler gauge between the head and the square. There shouldn't be more than a few thousandths gap at any of the ports. A good machinist should be able to set the head up in a cylinder head mill, or even a Bridgeport, and flycut the side of the head smooth along the ports. The alignment studs at the ends of the exhaust manifold can be unscrewed with a pair of vise grips.

The rings are only for intake manifold alignment with the ports- - - -they don't do any sealing to speak of. They might need to be filed or ground down a little to allow a milled manifold to tighten up snug against the gasket, however.
Jerry

You might want to look at a Remflex 2027. This is a one piece gasket which is extra thick. It will make up for some irregularity in the manifolds and head surface.

The Remflex lead is excellent ($40). I have gotten away with using a double set of regular gaskets ($25), just to get it running. Not as pretty, though.

yes go for the remflex, after the surfaces are trued up of course.

If the surfaces are trued up, why spend the money on a thicker than needed gasket?

because it will never leak. I haven't used any on my truck yet, but I have used it on many industrial applications. I am definitely am going to use it the next round regardless of price.

+1 for the Remflex.

After reading another thread here, I spent the dough and bought a remflex gasket. It is very thick and a bit squishy, but has sealed my intake & exhaust very well without using any other products on it.

I'll use one if I ever get a leak, or if I ever again get too much warpage (and want to save on the cost of planing). In fact, I bought one within the last year (in case I ever need it), when I first saw it mentioned here.

I've had them on my 1946 235 for over a year. Have them between the head and manifolds and cut my own to fit between the two manifolds using one of their blank square pieces, as I didn't see them having a pre-cut one for my application. So far there are 0 leaks and the material looks identical to the way it did when it was installed, excepting there is some separation at the first and last studs, but it happened on the initial heat cycle and hasn't changed since or leaked at all. Definitely an upgrade over the other material. Although my head and manifolds are pretty flat, it seems the other material would eventually rust and would work itself into a leak at one of the exhaust ports after about 2 years or so, and usually on a different port each time. There isn't anything to rust in this stuff so it should last for a while. I believe there are some photos in my gallery of the install.