Yes, that's the one- - - -the telltale way to ID those rims is the 2" wide smooth section in the middle that's visible as they are inserting the first piece into the tire at the beginning of the video. The guy who used sell me big rig tires lost the top of his head at about the level of the bridge of his nose to one of those rims, but he was extremely careless about his tire-mounting procedures. When he was mounting tires, I got as far away from him as possible! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Those guys are idiots. You could clearly see a portion of the rim rusted away there just as they were putting it together. I would not want to be anywhere near that wheel once it's aired up.
1950 4100 - unrestored and driven weekly for almost no reason at all.
Those guys are idiots. You could clearly see a portion of the rim rusted away there just as they were putting it together. I would not want to be anywhere near that wheel once it's aired up.
Agreed. I was just surprised someone was actually putting these back into service.
The only way I would clean and paint one of those (as opposed to scrapping it) is if I were using it for a bench grinder stand.
These guys probably are a bunch of idiots by the way they mount the thing. I wonder how they broke it down. I changed a lot of these things back in their day. I still have some simply because I haven't been able to find enough lock ring type for all of the two tons I have. When I mount them, I put in a cage and clip an air regulated air chuck to them. I stand where I can watch if they seat correctly and I can hear when they snap into place.
I don't recommend using them, but until you find replacements, what do you do? Its not a bad idea to run them on the steer and the rear inside and if you have at least 2 lock ring type put them on the outside drive.
I'm still curious about how exactly these rims were supposed to work. I know this can't be the proper mounting procedure. Do you know of any better videos? The lock ring rims are pretty self explanatory, but the concept of the RH-5 is still a mystery to me. Probably because I've never seen one in great enough detail.
I can't easily post a picture from my phone, but check my picture link in signature and look in old truck wheel info album. In there is picture of an RH5 rim I cut a section of, you can see how the two halves latch together, and how that is more tentative than other multi piece rim designs.
The two halves of the rim have an interlocking lip of approximately 1/8" when they're new, and if that lip gets damaged by rust or mishandling during assembly the already minimal latching area can be compromised to the point of separation. The halves of the rim are assembled by tilting one part of the rim at an angle and driving it over the other piece with a heavy hammer. The barrel section of the wheel distorts enough from the angle to let the pieces slide over each other, then they align and lock as the tire is inflated and the beads seat.
There is one narrow notch in one part of the wheel to allow a specially-shaped pry bar to be inserted to take the rim apart once the air pressure is released and the beads are driven away from the rim flanges. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
So one half has to stretch over the other? I was hoping that wasn't the answer, but couldn't see any way around it. That just doesn't seem like a good, sound design.
It works well on brand new, or good condition parts. Once rust or mishandling (or mismatching wheel halves) gets into the game, the term "widowmaker" is pretty appropriate. Once the two pieces of a wheel develop a running fit with each other, putting two pieces together from different wheel assemblies can result in a less than perfect lockup between halves. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
So I have six of these that I need to get the tires off so I can crush them or turn them into bench grinder stands. What's the procedure? Air them down, loop a chain around the rim, break the bead by beating on the tire with a hammer, and pry the wheel apart?
Liquidated my projects Now looking for a decent '47-'55.1 3100, 3600, or 3800
Pull valve stem, then no danger. Break tire bead loose from each rim half, this can be difficult on old tires/wheels. fiddle with and work ring down some so it can be canted and pried off other half. Or cut tire around the edge, and use cutoff wheel at bead to cut steel cords, if scrapping rim no harm in cutting through the rim as well.
Here's what I do with the RH5 wheels, also remove the rim from center dish. https://goo.gl/photos/46d2K83gJupQ6vs37 And use front hub and spindle as the swivel.
