The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Paint manufacturer recommendation for complete repaint

I am in the final stages of body/primer work and block sanding my 45 GMC 1/2 ton. I plan on keeping the original colors of Brewster green and Back runningboards, and fenders.

I could use some advise on which paint manufacturer you all could recommend, that is good quality and reasonably priced. I plan on using a single stage, just becuase, I want to spray the entire truck, inside, underneath, and outside of everthing. I have used Glassurite inthe past, but now there's many others including PPG, Dupont, Limco etc, etc, etc. My other question is, how much paint would I need. Again, I look at the bed inside, outside, and underneath, along with the rest of the parts including the interior steel parts. There is a lot of paint work required.

Lastly, I am thinking of using an undercoat for protection under the cab, under the bed, and under the fenders. I have a spray schutzer, so let me know.

Formula1 are you able to get your hands on some ENDURA paint it is a single stage mixed 1:1 it is very reasonbly priced, lasts a long time, polishes well and has a great shine. They say it will resist fade up to ten years.

Well PPG has the origional Ditzler paint codes that came on you truck.

I prefer PPG too. I've seen some problems with the clear coat coming off with DuPont products, both aftermarket and OE.

I would ask around the local body shops and see what they use.
You might hear nothing but PPG from this site but when it comes down to YOUR area and YOUR supplier PPG just might flat out suck!
If your jobber has no backing or lacks reps in your area then that brand of paint is the last brand of paint Id spray no matter how good it is.

As for your spray undercoating, 3M lacks.
Try and find Wurth products in your area or do a net search on the Wurth website. Or even do a bedliner system like LineX.

RM, whom makes Glassuirt is one of the best paint systems out there. If you can afford Glassurit then id spray it. Their Diamont brand is good also.

Any brand of paint will fail when abused.

Endura is good. 'cept it can't be wet sanded. Really really hard on you if you don't have proper paint gear and a both with proper ventilation.
I painted my frame with it.
Really shines. here's a link. Under \'Chassis\' Album
However, I probably wouldn't paint the exterior of a vehicle with it. We have, but usually on work trucks that need just a tough paint.

Good feedback. I never heard of endura? Who makes that.

I see a lot of posts referring to "Jobbers". Are you referring to other body shops, or paint supply houses?

What can you tell me about Diamont? Is that a lower grade version of Glassurite??

One last question, how will they make the color match for such an old paint code? What would they need from me other than the year, and color name?

On your color match question, as long as you have the year,make, and model, and the name of the color, they should be able to match it. You might check on whether the color may have been used on later vehicles under a different name, this was, and still is, a common practice by the manufacturers to make it appear as if the are "new" color options added. They also may have used different names for different brands within the same company.

If you are doing this yourself, visit several paint stores and pick the one that offers the best service. Much of the success in a DIY paint job is making sure all the materials are compatible, and this is where the store will help you. If they don't want to talk to you, walk.

If you are having someone else do this, let them use whatever products they are comfortable with.

None of the name brands suck, they are all good if they are laid down correctly. They all fail if they are not done right.

While I understand the desire to use a single stage product for simplicity, base/clear is actually easier for an ameteur to get a high quality paint job out of, especially if it has any metal flake or pearl. The clear really hides a lot of spray quality flaws that show up in single stage.

A jobber would be who you buy the paint from like O'Reilys, who ever.

RM's glassurit line is the top line, diamont is the second line, comparable to PPG's concept line, or Dupont chromaone system.

Diamont is no junk second rate paint, we used it at one of the shops I worked at, very nice stuff.

Like I said before use something that is used in YOUR area. Where I once lived in Iowa,Dupont was no where to be found, it was all PPG. The one or two shops that used DUpont for some reason all had problems. Finally they switched to PPG and no more problems.
That was because PPG backed that area with reps, Dupont did not. If they had questions it was answered by a PPG rep, Dupont cared less.

By all means am not saying that Dupont sucks stay away, but what am saying in that region DUpont lacked support. And when you lack support you have problems. I dont care if you are a home hobbiest or paint cars for a living, you will run into problems were you need that manufactor tech support.

Many of the "OLD" color formulas are gonna be for an enamel based paint, which you do NOT want to use. Modern day urethane be it baseclear or single stage, wont match up to that enamel based paint.
If they cant mix it up in urethane based paint the thing to do buy a pint of enamel mixed in the color you want, spray it out and then have them computer scan that color.
What that does is match it up to modern day urethane based color...Eric

Thats a good idea Eric. Spray & Scan.

Endura makes Endura.

Formula 1, when I painted my truck the first time, I used acrylic enamel (single stage). Now they tell me thats 20 year old technology and BC/CC is much easier like 4onthefloor says.
Good Luck.

This has been very helpful information, and hopefully for other hobbyiest like me.

I have one very good jobber that carries three main lines. They have been very helpful for me on my stages to date. I will definetly get them involved.

Regarding the single vs. basecoat clear coat arguement. Very good points made. I have used both. The reason why I was originally thinking of single stage is to shoot the interior, inside of door panels, under fenders etc first in a single stage, then mask off, and paint the exterior. The reason why I did this was, there are so many nooks and crannies that hide dust, that I did not want that to contaminate the exterior, which is much easier to keep clean if the area is prepped properly. This is exactly what i did on my last restoration, but the colors between the single stage paint for the inside/undercarriage, and BC/CC for the exterior did not match 100%. I have been told that this will happen, and was trying to avoid this. FYI, my 45 GMC 1/2 ton will be painted dark green (non-metalic), and black fenders and running boards.

Any suggestions on how to stage the painting sequence?

One more question. I am painting the entire truck inside and outside, and bottom using the original color of brewstergreen on the cab, doors, hood, hood sides, bed, tailgate, and misc hinges etc. I am then going to paint the front and rear fenders, running boards, rear bumper, misc brackets and headlight bezels black. How much paint material do you think I should need if I go with a basecoat clearcoat as suggested? Since I will be painting in my garage, prepped with plastic on walls, ceiling, and wet floor, then tacked for the next few days to ensure everthing is settled, I want to make sure that I have enought clearcoat on to allow me to remove any dust spots when the occure. So, how many coats, and how much paint based on my truck size??

Good point. I purchased a fresh air respirator a few years ago. It's fantastic, and would not mess with this if I did not have it. Highly recommend it!!

most high solid clears need 2 coats if you are going to sand and buff i would apply a minimum of 3 coats, providing you know what you are doing. If not apply 4 coats then lightly wet sand or da with 1000 then 1500 grit and buff. nason is a lesser brand of dupont and makes a very good clear. Omni is a lesser brand of PPG and makes a good base coat. I agree go to a good paint supplier and get help. Some times a pro painter will come by your shop and point you in the right direction and help you get started if you ask real nice. Good luck i'm sure it will look sweet