The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 58 1/2 ton front hub assembly--what's supposed to be there?

On my first drive after getting my truck away from the shop, i noticed the front left brake drum dragging on 'something'. Better going straight, stopped turning left and bad turning right.

So, I jacked it up and took the assembly apart. First clue was that it did not come off easily. The spindle is tight in its mounting, but has seen better days. It appears to me that the outer bearing and race is wobbbling causing some minor havoc where the brake drum is hitting the backing plate up toward the top. I'm sure its working the inner bearing some too, as it will not smoothly slide on to the spindle.

I have three questions: Where can I find a good stock spindle to replace mine? I know they're not reproduced. I also have heard they're not interchangeable with any other year.
Here is what I found when removing the assembly from inside to outside: grease deflector, inner race, inner bearing, inner bearing cup, outer bearing cup, outer bearing, outer race, washer,castle nut, cotter pin. What is missing?
I also notice that the grease deflector appears to be spinning. Should it be spinning? Thanks

It's possible the bearing just isn't adjusted right. Most people are too timid to put a little preload on the spindle nut. Unless the bearings are pitted or scored, it should be possible to tighten the nut snug, like 10-15 ft/lbs, and then back off until a cotter pin hole in the spindle lines up with one of the castellations in the nut. If the spindle isn't bent or deeply scored where the bearings run, don't worry about its appearance between the bearings- - - - -all of them I've ever seen have had a very rough finish.
Jerry

Thanks for the reply. I can hand tighten the nut to where the drum won't spin at all.

It's been a while since I've done wheel bearings, but that doesn't sound right. Just before you get it bound up, does it rotate evenly or catch at a certain position? Sounds like a race may not be properly seated (cocked at an angle)

Inspect all parts, check for spinning bearing cups and repack. Make sure something is not dragging, brake shoes, broken brake parts, etc. Hand tight? won't spin? put the tire on and it will spin.

The inner to outer stack is: oil deflector, inner oil seal, inner cone, inner bearing, inner cup, oil shield, drum/hub, outer cup, outer bearing, outer cone, washer, nut, cap.

Procedure: Tighten nut to 45-60 ft lbs while rotating wheel. Back off 1/6 turn or more if necessary to align slots in nut with cotter hole.

Source: 55-59 maintenance manual.

It's always nice to compare the other side for feel, brake parts assembly, stack of hub parts, condition.

Thanks for the reply. This truck has not been driven for almost 3 years while it was under restoration by several different shops (long story). When I say it won't spin, I mean the brake drum is in hard contact with the backing plate up towards the top. There are metal shavings in the bottom of the brake assembly. Putting the wheel on would certainly give me more leverage to spin it, but it would only make more metal.

The passenger side operates properly, so yesterday I did a swap for comparison. The first thing I noticed is that the assembly slides on and off smoothly without persuasion. When its buttoned up, there is no play. Left side is a full on wrassling match to get on and off. When buttoned up I can wiggle it. I tried swapping the inner races and neither wants to slide on the left side, so I think I have a spindle problem. The right-side spindle looks much better.

So, my current theory is that for whatever reason, the left side assembly was damaged by improper installation or a bad spindle slightly deforming the races. When the left side is buttoned up it results in a wobble that grinds the brake drum into the backing plate near the top.

All this aside, I do not have all the pieces you describe in the assembly. I'm using the stock ball bearing setup. I have no inner oil seal or cone. I have no oil shield or outer cone. Are you describing a roller bearing setup or am I misunderstanding?

I have a replacement spindle on the way that I will try with a new set of bearings.

I think you may be on the right track. I was thinking that the backing plate might possibly be bent outward on the top, contacting the drum, but that could also be caused by a bent spindle. You could try checking with a straightedge or a dial indicator, but since you have another spindle on the way, it would just be academic to see whether it's bent or not.
Hope you get it sorted out.

I don't know if your king pins can cause this. If a spindle was bad (shaft diameters), you should be able to see that. You should be able to notice gouging or galling or heat bluing?

Anyway, UPDATE my info. The parts (picture) I have is from a 55-59 GMC manual. Maybe Chevy is different. I looked at oldcarmanual online and only found a 55.2 Chevy Truck manual. Did not show a picture with parts identified like the GMC manual. I did notice that the torque for nut, while spinning wheel, is 33 Ft LBS NOT 45-60 as on GMC. As far as parts, for an original "bearing set", there are three pieces. There is 1)inner cone, 2)the ball cage and 3)the pressed in outer cup. I think this is true for the inner and outer bearings. I think the replacement bearings (which you may have) have that inner cone and the ball cage as one piece.

The original inner bearing could be said to have four pieces which includes a "seal" pressed into hub. The inner deflector may be part of the backing plate, can't remember.
It seems like you need a B67 or B45 outer bearing and a B70 inner bearing.

Bottom line: These ball bearings are not cheap. This is the time for you to buy a tapered roller bearing kit. It is half the price of ball bearings and better!!! The kit is $120 and the old style ball bearings and seals are around $240!!!! at O'Reilly's.

Like this ....probably a mistake, should say 41-59

After much consideration, I've decided to use the kit from Scarebird to convert to front disks. All the tapered roller bearings used in this conversion cost less than a new inner ball bearing in the old setup. Additionally, the conversion does away with all of the potential causes of my issue except the spindle, which I'm also replacing. I should end up with a better stopping truck.

Scarebird sells you the new brackets and hardware and gives you a list of the NAPA part numbers where you can buy the rotors, calipers, and the bearings, etc. you can get either the 6 lug rotors or 5 lug. It is a "Frankenstein" assortment of parts for sure, but it works from what I've been able to find.

The total hardware cost is around $600+-. I previously converted to a dual master cylinder which may further simplify the project. I have questions about whether the dual master cylinder obviates the need for a proportioning valve or if I need some sort of pressure limiting device on the front line. I do not plan to use any sort of booster.

I'm running 60-61 GM 6 lug 15x5.5" wheels, so it also remains to be seen whether I'll need to grind on the rotors for clearance. I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has done this kit as to anything to watch out for. I'll post my experience with this.