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#1205827 02/25/2017 6:49 PM
Joined: Mar 2008
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'Bolter
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Hello,

After nine years in storage, we are now working on our 48 GMC 1 ton. Break drums, 12" & 14" how much can one machine on them to get the wear edge off?

Thank for your help, Joerg


~ NORTH OF 49TH
1948 GMC Model 9434 Frame rebuild
1953 Chevrolet 1314 1/2 ton rebuild
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Back when just about every vehicle ran drum brakes, the rule of thumb for machining passenger car drums was .060" max, and most light and medium-duty trucks had a .090" max oversize. Those 14" drums are virtually impossible to find new, and good used ones are almost as scarce. Don't machine them any more than absolutely necessary. If there's a deep groove, leave it and just clean up the main drum surface area.
Jerry


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Bolter
Bolter
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Joerg, are you going to do the machining yourself? Any good brake shop will have a list of thickness tolerances to go by. They will mic the drum to see if it is within tolerance or not. They usually remove just enough material to get rid of the lip and be smooth all the way around. They won't do an unsafe drum.


Martin
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'Bolter
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Hello and thanks,

The rear 14" are not off yet, they are hooked on the shoes. Need to see this pm how they come.

I have a break shop do them and you are correct, they should know.

Joerg


~ NORTH OF 49TH
1948 GMC Model 9434 Frame rebuild
1953 Chevrolet 1314 1/2 ton rebuild
Follow along it the DITY Bay
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 105
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 105
Hi,

the 8 bolt, 14" drums on my 49 GMC 1 ton rear axle have four holes, are they for push bolts and if, what size are they?

Can't see any thread at the start.

Thanks, Joerg


~ NORTH OF 49TH
1948 GMC Model 9434 Frame rebuild
1953 Chevrolet 1314 1/2 ton rebuild
Follow along it the DITY Bay
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,442
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,442
Make sure you back off the adjusters as far as they will go. If it still won't come off, disconnect the brake line and remove the mounting bolts for the wheel cylinders. This should allow the brake shoes, Springs and brake cylinders to move enough to get the drums off. I don't believe the holes are threaded.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)

Joined: Sep 2010
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K
'Bolter
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I thought the drums shoul have a min thickness stamped in them


kevinski
1954 GMC 9300
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Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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What HRL said....and be sure its a reputable shop doing the resurface. The local flaps will not do it if there is any "thinking" involved. I've had several along the way where we just resurface the face, as HRL suggested, and left the groove. Use Caution!


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'Bolter
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If you are getting close to the max, just leave them alone because if a shop that doesn't know what they are doing ruins them, you will have a tough time replacing them. The new linings will wear a pattern pretty quickly. We ran grooved brake drums 50 or 60 years ago and it worked then and it will work now.

I am especially cautious about cutting drums that have been used with non asbestos linings. Non asbestos linings cause hot spots that will cause the cutter to jump over them. I have a lathe that will cut 16 ½ x 7 drums, but I quit cutting them when all we could get was non asbestos. I rigged up a grinder attachment to grind the hot spots, but it is just not worth all the effort.


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