The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Ignition switch and lock for 1952 3100 1/2 ton

I have been working to get my Chevy to start. I have installed a rebuilt starter and switch in hopes the stomp started would function. No such luck. After installation I charged the battery then attempted. The ignition lock and or ignition switch failed to provide juice to the starter.

I have parts catalog out and located ignition switch mounting bracket, ignition lock with key, and ignition switch.

The existing ignition lock is sloppy and on my first attempt did power the headlights but not the starter. Subsequent try's and no power to anything.

The parts people love me. I am to quick to order? I like the idea of new. Bottom line just want to drive.

Do you have the wiring diagram for your truck? You may want to check to see if you have the ignition switch wired correctly.

On a 52, the ignition switch only energizes the ignition system. (juice to the points)
The headlights and stomp starter, etc. will work with a bad, or good ign. switch,, off or
on.
Anyone could jump in any 47-54 truck and turn on the headlights, or hit the foot starter and the motor will spin.
It takes the key to make it start and get ya rollin.
Or a hotwire fromm the battery to the coil.

How long have you had this truck? Judging from your description of your symptoms, you have an electrical "mess".
I would disconnect the battery immediately! You then need to obtain a 1948-1951 Chevrolet Truck Shop Manual and study the Electrical Section. Once you get a decent handle on how these babies are wired, you will be able to answer most of your own questions. Then if you run into some weird issues, you can come back and see if someone in here can help you. There are just too many circuits involved to walk you through all of them from afar.
Carl

As delux54 has explained, you have a misconception of the system.
The ignition switch on a foot start turns on power to the coil. (a wire from the switch "on"/"run" position to the coil positive terminal). The ignition switch does NOT power the starter. The ammeter provides power to the ignition switch's battery terminal. When Ign switch is turned on, nothing is supposed to happen except power to coil. Then you push on foot switch to make starter motor operate. The foot switch gets direct power from a cable from battery positive terminal to foot switch lug. The foot switch is electrical and mechanical. The electrical part sends power to starter motor windings. At the same time, the mechanical linkage shoots the pinion drive gear into the flywheel gear making your engine rotate. If ignition switch is off or not sending power to coil, engine will still rotate but will not fire.
Headlight switch is always hot. The Ignition switch does not turn it on. That has no bearing on your problem.
1. If your starter does not rotate engine, be sure battery is good. Be sure battery is grounded to body, to frame AND to engine. If it's not grounded to engine, starter motor will not operate. This is a ground cable or strap from battery negative terminal to an engine bolt.
2. Next determine foot switch is working, electrically and mechanically.
3. Starter motor has a copper lug inside that is contacted by the foot switch plunger. If that lug is burnt away, no start.

So digest and report.
Mr. Bowman, do not mean to talk down to you, or question your ability/knowledge, just getting to the point for fast diagnosis and fix.

Before you start ordering everything in the catalog-- have you pulled and checked/cleaned the grounds and other connections?
Also- is it new to you? i.e. Have you had it running before?

Dear fellow Bolters,
Based on comments I charged the battery and had the folks at Auto Zone make sure it was charged and functioning properly. I replaced both negative and positive cables. All connections are good and prior to securing to battery I wire brushed the terminals. I noticed that when I turned on the key lock to the ignition switch the dash instruments were activated. I pressed the gas pedal a few times then pressed the stomp starter. No go. Second attempt the dash instruments were not activated and stomp start didn't work.

Just as a recap I have replaced (1) the starter (2) the solenoid (3) the ignition key lock (4) the ignition switch (5) battery cables.

Prior to posting I checked the key lock and no power to dash instruments and foot stomp starter did not work.

Any suggestion welcome.
Thanks.
Richard

Richard,

Do you have a 6v or 12v truck?

What gauge battery cables did you buy?

What is the voltage of the replacement starter?

What is the voltage of the solenoid?

The ground connections between the body and the frame and the engine? 1 leg (strap) missing?
Does your ground cable from the battery connect to the frame or one of the starter/bellhousing bolts?
Stomp starter means no solenoid, so the starter works with the key off. Get that to work and the other problems will go away.

I have no idea why any lights would come on when you turn the ignition on. You need to check your entire wiring harness before the truck catches on fire..

Problem solved. Combination of issues. First the ground connection was not good. That was fixed yet the truck stalled out again and again. Made sure sufficient fuel in the tank. Still stalling. Replaced the fuel pump. Covered under warranty by one (1) day. Saved a few bucks. Test drove up the Palm Springs tram road. A good 2000 foot climb and back to the shop. My thanks goes out to Don at H & H Automotive. I don't have to tow "Fred" to the Western Regional AACA meet come March 23 here in Palm Springs. Thanks again to you fellow Bolters for your comments and support. Richard