The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks Cab Swap

I'm considering swapping the cab on my '63. Aside from having some major rust issues (rockers, cab corners, floor, and above the windshield) it also has a large dent on the driver's side where some one backed into it by accident.
I've never done anything like this before, and I was wondering if anyone has any tips. I'm also wondering how much of the body has to come off before I can remove the cab. Obviously the hood and those cowl panels near the lower corners of the windshield (i'm not sure what the "official" name for those is) and the front fenders would have to come off. What i'm not so sure about is whether I need to take the bed and/or the grill off. I also don't know what the best way to remove the steering column would be. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Bed OK to stay. Take off pedals, all cables and wiring need separated. Gas line. Heater hoses, etc.
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I think you can remove the fenders and inner fenders without removing the grill/radiator support. The cowl corners will have to come off to get these off. You already know the hood has to come off and the above link has good directions to get the steering column out.
After that, as bartamos says, all pedals, cables (brake, heater, etc), lines, and wiring needs to be removed.
The bed does not have to come off but if it stays and the engine is still installed getting the bed off (short of lifting it with an overhead hoist of some sort)will take 4-6 buddies and some grunt work. That being the case make sure that you make the cab as light as possible so make sure the doors, seat, fuel tank, etc. come out.
Also, not sure how VA works but recall that your VIN on the old cab is going to be different than the new cab (might be transferable) so make sure you follow regulations such that you can re-license your trunk when you are done.

Cedric,
What is the condition of the front clip (fenders, grill surround)? Likely, you will struggle with many bolts. Sure to break off a number of them and find rust at the joining points. Something to consider - once disassembled it may never to go back together the same way given the age and rust and maybe undercoating. If you are taking the front clip off do it as one piece (or as few pieces as possible). Grill surround, inner and outer fenders might very well come off as one with patience and an extra hand, leaving the radiator support.
Pretty sure I learned all of this during my time with my 62.

Great point. Take off clip as one piece. On the same note of going back together... before unbolting hood, drill two 1/8 holes thru each hinge connection. Drill them as far apart as feasible. When reinstalling it someday, use two 1/8 drill bits (shank end) at each hinge, as locating pins, and it goes back on exactly where it was. That could be a moot point when using a different cab.
60-66 "cowl panel/corners" are called fender extensions.

hi, im taking my cab off, turned out to be more than I thought. I jacked it up to get 2x4's under it an get 4 guys to lift.i must be a lot older than I thought. its not hapining. buddy coming over sat with sidsteer.if I was smart, I would just raise cab. move frame with wheels lol

Thanks you guys for the quick responses! I think given the condition of my fenders and grill I'll take hambone's suggestion and remove the front clip in one piece. I have a heavy duty chain hoist directly over the top of where I'm working, so I think I can just lift the can up, roll the truck out from under it and set it down. Thanks again for your help!

Put that cab on a home built dolly (pallet might work) so you can roll it around and out of the way with ease.

moving cabs around, I had one on a dolly, the other one, I used he base of my cherry picker (engine hoist) for a dolly. Worked great!

That's exactly the way I did my 1963 when I needed to swap the frame. After removing the bed and front clip, I jacked the whole thing up, built an A-Frame through the cab, unbolted the wheels and frame, installed bare rims and lowered the frame to the ground, and rolled it out.

Difference is that I was swapping the frame, not the cab. Unless you have room to have both cabs jacked up, my method wouldn't work. Well, maybe if you pulled the cab my way, then lowered it onto a dolly as described above, then wheeled the replacement cab into position then lifted it with jacks. Sounds like a lot of work.

Good luck! Keep everyone posted.