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| | Forums66 Topics126,781 Posts1,039,301 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 338 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 338 | Last fall I had the cab of my truck sandbasted and shot with epoxy primer. The cab has some pin holes that need repair and it will need a small patch in the front. I don't own any painting equipment and I was wondering what I should use to recoat the bare metal once repairs are done.
Am I going to have to break out and buy a paint gun or can you get DP90 in a rattle can?
Thanks, | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 69 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 69 | Hey Bill I would use a spray primer for now. You can alway clean it off and reprime with epoxy later The epoxy on it now is probably a sealer coat and should be reprimed. You don't want rust to start.
New deal for old steel
| | | | Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 886 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 886 | Bill If you have a decent compressor go buy yourself a cheap gun. In the long run the paint and reducers are a better deal. All my guns are cheap. I don't have over a c note in all the guns in the attached photo or stop by and borrow one Dan http://community.webshots.com/mypho...=2485059000071274430&security=dPKoat | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 8 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 8 | If DP90 was used it has a max recoat time of 11 days. After that time it will have to be sanded before applying anything.Some products recoat time is a short a 3 days. Just FYI. | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 92 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 92 | cprice, when you say sanded, do you mean scuffed, or sanded off and reprimed? I have epoxy primed fenders I bought 2 years ago. Should I take them down to metal and reshoot or just rough them up and another primer coat? Steve O | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 20 Junior Member | Junior Member Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 20 | Steve DP 90 is a good product, if that is what was used. I'm sure what cprice is refering to is to sand it in preperation for recoating, this will allow the new top coat to adhere to the existing primer. If possible find out the brand and product line that was used. Then recoat or paint with a product from the same line. This will ensure proper product compatability. But I'm sure that after 2 years all is well. Good luck with your project Al
Allan S Langley B.C Canada
| | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 8 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 8 | Sorry so slow, I was referring to reprepping so that your top coat will adhere to the etching primer.Not sanding to bare metal and reprime. With cured epoxy it will be more like sanding than skuffing because DP 90 is tough once cured.
CP | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 58 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 58 | Can I jump in here and ask a question ? Should a sealer be applied first, then do any bodywork you need and use sandable primer ? Or do I wait until all body work is done and add sealer as the last coat before paint ?
55 Cabover
| | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 427 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 427 | That is a matter of preference. I prime with epoxy primer first then do all the body work. (keeps it from rusting if in a humid climate) Some do all or part of the body work and prime as they go. Either way is ok. | | |
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