The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop starting up 54 COE that has been sitting outside

Does anyone have suggestions for starting up a 1954 5700 COE, with 235 engine that has been sitting outside for two years in New England?

What is the best way to drain and flush the gas tank? Should I remove the spark plugs, drop some Marvel Mystery Oil and crank it over a few times?

Any suggestions will be appreciated

first question, does the engine turn over by hand? I would at a minimum, pull the plugs and put a bit of oil down each cylinder and make sure you can turn it over a couple revolutions by hand. It would also be a good idea to pull the distributor and spin the oil pump to get some oil circulating before spinning the engine though!

best way to flush tank is to take it all the way out so you can spray inside and dump it out.

All that said, on the last 2 I bought, I just connected a hose to the inlet side of the fuel pump and put it in a fresh can of gas and fired it up. (probably not the easiest on the engine though).

Good advice, from 69Cuda

However, I have also simply done what he describes in his last paragraph.

There is a write up in tech tips on how to do a first start.
I'll look for it.

Don

Two years is nothing compared to what many here have dealt with. You failed to tell us if it was running when parked. If so, pull the plugs and oil the cylinders. Hook up an external tank (boat tanks work well) and fire her up. If not, follow ALL the instructions listed in the Tech Tip linked by Tim.

2 years isn't bad at all, especially if it has an air filter in place and an exhaust system. That means that the cylinder rust is minimal.
however, I have a standing rule for any engine that has been standing (out side my care) for "a while" - DO NOT rotate the engine until you remove the plugs, squirt in a good quantity of mystery oil or another penetrating oil and let it set for at least 24 hrs. Then gently try to turn it by hand. If it turns good, if not repeat.
You can never UN scratch cylinder walls or UN break rings.
Note: to avoid a mess, once it will turn, cover the spark plug holes with rags and the inner fenders as well, and crank the engine over with the starter (plugs out) until the cylinders are cleared out. Then try to start it.

Make sure to see if any valves are stuck, especially if you do not know why it has been sitting. With the valve cover removed, push down gently with a piece of 2x4 or other gentle tool to make sure they all go down, oil the stems first, no chance of a broken rocker then.

Ed

Bent pushrods and/or damaged rocker arms are all too frequent problems while attempting to wake up stovebolts from a long sleep. The pushrods in particular are pretty flimsy and it doesn't take much resistance from a rusty or sticky valve to wreak havoc on the valve train. For penetrating oil, I prefer KROIL, used liberally. Remove the valve cover and give the valve stems a generous shot, followed by manually manipulating the rocker arms several times with a pry bar before you make any attempt to turn the engine. It's expensive, but not nearly as costly as a bunch of bent or scored internal engine parts. I prefer the bulk quantities, quarts or gallons, to aerosol cans. Obviously, the cylinders need a generous shot of penetrant as well.

www.kanolabs.com

Jerry

personally I would drain the oil, make sure there is no water or other weird stuff first

Hello Everyone ..... Thank you for all the great advice. I pulled the plugs, sprayed plenty of rust breaking WD40 in the piston chambers and let it sit for 2 days. I installed a new battery and the engine cranks over nicely. Apparently the gas tank is a recent replacement and there was very little fuel in the tank.

But the next issue is a leaking carburetor ..... does anyone have a suggestion about how to remove the existing carb. I have a rebuilt unit I want to replace it with.

Thank you in advance for your help

That updraft carb is a royal PITA. Take a lot of pictures as you go, as the throttle and choke linkage gets a little confusing once it's disconnected. The intake manifold flange nuts have to be backed off evenly a few flats at a time since the area is pretty cramped, and reinstalled the same way. Be sure all the gasket surfaces are very clean, as you definitely don't want to chase a vacuum leak in that area. Take it slow and easy, and you should be OK.
Jerry

According to the 1954 shop manual .... for COE Models, remove rear half of left fender skirt, then disconnect air cleaner from air horn

then proceed to disconnect fuel and vacuum lines, release choke and throttle clamps and lock screws, removed studs from manifold mounting, remove carburetor

Is the rear half of left fender skirt the 2 step body part?

All while standing on your head