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My solution to the same problem.


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LONGBOX55,

His trick was much cheaper than yours!


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His trick is also portable eeeek

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1956 8400 Wrecker w/Holmes 525
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That is a great looking video. In my humble opinion, I don't really believe the lug and nut warmed up enough with the lighter to have the affect it was supposed to.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
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I too wondered if it's real. Hard to see but I imagine a drip or two of instantly cooled wax on the nut/stud. If the metal is not warm enough to keep the wax melted how can it wick in between the threads?

I've used the paraffin trick on stubborn fasteners using an acetylene torch, pretty much the hotter the better and add the wax as it cools to a point it won't all catch on fire, which is still "smokin hot".


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
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+10 on the last two posts..........candle trick..........booooocus as the car guy's would say

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just work out more and use more ump


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Might be a little late to reply, but you can try Deep Creep. Better than WD-40.
Soak the nuts real good and leave them for about 24 hours; then take your impact wrench and put it Forward and tighten for a second or so, then reverse it and the nuts should bust loose.

Worked for me a couple of times.




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Penetrating oils will always be better than WD40 for it's primary job is as a moisture displacer and lubricant. Because it has a very low viscosity and when the rust is not that tough it works.

This is why I always grab the Liquid Wrench can first. Never used Kroil and due to it's price I most likely will not. Jeffrey

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Has anyone noticed a perceptible difference between PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, Deep Creep or others? Any preferences?


Matthew 6:33

1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55
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It may not be a unanimous decision but for years the consensus has been Kroil is the best.........although transmission fluid mixed with diesel fuel is darn good. There have been "experiments" post here before and Kroil wins by a smidgen!
Search "kroil" and you'll probably find an hours worth of reading.

I stocked up on Kroil when I would get buy one of the big cans and get one free....sometimes even free shipping...and as Jerry suggest, buy it in the gallon cans its much more economical and use your own spray bottle. If my stash of cans ever run out that's what I'll do. I like Kroil and the plants where I worked for years use it as their #1 got to can.


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I used to like PB Blaster and still do, it works very well.
I also have a can of Kroil and it works at least as good or perhaps better. I use it frequently and only a couple drops at a time, I've had the one can for many years and it's still plenty full.

The comments about high price are misguided, it doesn't take much to do the job so it is very cheap for each use. Perhaps folks that think it is expensive are accustomed to spraying their penetrant of choice freely and wildly, wasting the majority of it?


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1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
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Kroil is my choice and like Grigg said, it don't take very much.

Don


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I say use what you like but for those that have not seen this I provided a copy and paste. Jeffrey



Penetrating oil .......... Average load

None ..................... 516 pounds

WD-40 .................... 238 pounds

PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds

Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix.............53 pounds

The Automatic Transmission fluid (ATF)-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

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Anyone else have trouble getting the acetone and transmission fluid to remain mixed together? It seems to be like water and oil for me.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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That's interesting data Jeffery. I always go with PB as it is cheap and readily available...suppose I should focus more on the Liquid Wrench. I think heat works way better than any penetrant though.


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I mentioned earlier diesel and tranny fluid....I meant Acetone and tranny fluid. I'm getting old!

...one thing I remember most folks complaining about it how fast the Acetone evaporates. I use acetone sometimes doing wood work and you do have to keep a tight lid on it.

...and I agree with who said a little goes a long way!


1937 Chevy Pickup
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Originally Posted by LONGBOX55
My solution to the same problem.

I'll bet you can break a lot of 70-year-rusted lug studs with that baby!

Now please return to YET ANOTHER thread that has degenerated into a debate over whose favorite penetrating oil is superior. grin


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Last edited by Jay Zed; 11/29/2016 10:37 AM.
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ATF-Acetone mix is one of my favorite rust penetrators. Also like Pentron. Using a lighter and a candle? Gotta try that.


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.

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