The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 51 Chevy 3100 Front 6 lug disc conversion questions

Hey guys, I need some help here. I'm new to the AD trucks and i just purchased a 51. its a running driving truck. It needs work and i have started that already. Now what i want to do is make this truck SAFE and get it on the road. my Drivers side front (wheel cylinder i assume) drum brake is leaking. I would like to change this thing over to a front disc brake and a new master cylinder in original location would probably be the easiest. I have been looking and looking and looking. i found CPP has a full bolt on kit. which is what i am looking for, but i can't see spending over $600 for this. My friend has a 50 ford f100 that he bought caliper brackets from and a LIST of parts to go buy to outfit the 50 F100 with late model various ford suvs/trucks/vans calipers, rotors, brake pads, and brake lines.

Is there anyone else out there that does this? I would like a bolt on kit. i have spend days and hours looking for these 6 lug bolt on front disc brake kits but not alot is out there. POL is another vendor that i found makes them, but after reviews that i have read i think i will stay away from POL. I am even having a hard time finding a deal on the CPP kit.

Any help is appreciated!

I used Scare Bird brackets. They give you a list of parts you can buy local. You will likely have to grind some material off the callipers to clear the rims. I have a CCP master on the way. None of this stuff is cheap.

Numerous suppliers sell bolt on kits, Truck Shop, Brothers, & Classic Industries in my area. I get them from ABS Power Brake in Orange, CA. To the best of my knowledge none of them will divulge the OEM/aftermarket parts that they use to build the kits. If you were able to find out what P/N's were needed for your specific application you would still need to purchase a bracket kit. By the time you round up the booster/master, rotors, calipers, hoses, brackets, bearings, bolts, spacers, & hardware you could have almost as much cost as the kit. If you have a resale number or get a discount from your favorite local auto parts store you may save some. As mentioned previously, none of this stuff is cheap.
Fred

I'll look into this. This is good to know. so stock wheels will work without spacers? or should i just get a spacer to make things easier?

Stock 16" wheels will work. As noted above, some grinding may be required.

I used a 1/4 in. spacer to move the wheel out a bit and now have about 1/8 in clearance between callipers and wheel after taking off about an 1/8in. from the calliper. That way I didn't have to grind anything off the wheel. The callipers have lots of meat so wasn't concerned about weakening them.

Found them!

https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=61&product_id=185

Need a hand here. do you have to buy the new roller taper bearings? I know i have to get a new master cylinder, what other parts are needed? How was your install? Easy? Do you have the parts list? I can contact them as well

You have to buy the rotors which include a six bolt hub, tapered roller bearings and the callipers. They supply brackets, spacers for the bearings etc. Best to contact them and they will send the list of what they supply and what you have to buy. I might add that the only problem I had was loose spacers at the back of the stub axle. instructions say to use Locktite blue but I used brass shim stock and then slathered Locktite on. Also make sure you get the right CCP master cylinder for your clutch brake configuration. Have I confused you completly ?

You will also need the correct disc/drum proportioning valve and residual pressure valve.

after pricing out the scarebird brackets along with the list of other parts needed it is the same price as a CPP kit. but the scarebirds doesn't include brake lines. So in my eyes CPP will be the better way to go. I just wish I could find a good deal on a 4954CBK-6HK or a 4954CBK-6

Have you bought your parts yet?
I used my FLAPS to source all my parts.
Calipers are 78/80 Chevy c10
rotors are 78/80 K10
master cylinder non power is a 1 inch corvette.
I made my caliper brackets out of 3/8 steel flat stock using a plywood pattern.
I fabbed my brake lines and used a 2lb proportioning valve.
Total cost was under $400.

the only thing i bought so far was a new master cylinder with booster and proportional valve. wanted to mount in stock location

You don't need them in that the conversion would work with the original wheel bearings, it's just that that there tends to be more movement (side-to-side) with the ball races than with the taper roller bearings -this is due to the difference in load lines between the two bearing types. Side to side movement of the disc knocks the brake pads back, so you get a longer brake pedal with the ball races than you would with the taper roller setup.

I just converted a 1950 3600 to disc in the front. I had to swap out axle for a 3100 though, other then that, job is same. I used POL. and had no issue with their parts, I think kit was $350 or so with free shipping when you buy from ebay, I did purchase master too from POL. I think 1" bore master are mostly all the same and probably sourced from China. I did purchase taper bearings also, got them from ebay MGchevyparts. Shcoks you can get from Autozone, I used Gabriels,