The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Primer question for home projects

I need advise on autobody primer for home use, but want to explain my thoughts first. I've had car projects for 35 years and am a serious car guy. I do most of my own work and am a pretty good bodyman. My problem now is I'm in the middle of 2 big projects that I need to do alot of body work on. I haven't painted in 6 or 8 years.Paint technology changes so fast, a novice like myself can't keep up with the changes. On my last major body work projects, I used 80S DuPont primer. It worked great because I could mix a cup full with lacquer thinner and keep it in the cup for a day, come home from work, blow thinner thru it and use it. I know that primer isn't the best compared to todays primers that uses a catalyst, but using primer with a catalyst limits the flexibility of a hobbyist like myself. I'll also add that I painted my Chevy II using 80S lacquer primer 20 years ago and it still looks good. So my question is, is there a primer that I can use that will offer me the flexibility I need, keeping in mind my body work is done a couple of hours at a time. I want to mix a cup at a time and probably leave it in the gun for 2 or 3 days during body work.

Ron,

In my ongoing effort to say something about anything I will say this; WHY!

I too paint in little dribs and drabs. I use catalyzed primer (over etch primer) in the same little batches. The paint systems seem to be geared to these primers, and if your parts hang around in the shop for months, as you do things a little at a time, it seems like you would want the integrity of the 2K system.

Could you change the way you approach the project so you do the bodywork in stages. Then on a given night after work, shoot several pieces with a 2K and clean the gun afterwards.


I'm not a painter, but I think the NEW stuff is truly better than the OLD stuff, and it might take a new routine to make it work right.


Stuart

Stuart, first thanks for the reply. I knew the first question would be why, and I hope I can continue discussion on this. A change in approach may be needed, but why? That's why I'm looking for advise in helping me make that decision. One thing is I'm use to never leaving bear metal exposed. Is that wrong? A few things come to mind first concerning catalyzed primer besides what I said in my first posts, leaving bear metal, the expenses, health issues, cleaning the gun daily, etc. Thanks again and I look forward to advise and opinions.

The only way that I know of is to use a laquer based primer- and I think it's just about obsolete. Besides, if you use it, you can't use base/clear or urethanes- the good stuff, because the laquer does bad things to it. (I'm not sure about enamel) Also, your paint job is only as good as that first coat of primer... just get the good stuff. You can get mixing cups for free when you get paint from the paint shop. (Usually) and you can mix small amounts at a time.

Ron,

You have undoubtedly seen the Stovebolt paint expert in this forum..Senior Marteen! I won't confuse your post with my limited hobby opinions, but will hope the pros show up to educate us both.

Stuart

Ron, Stuart is right, just change your habits a little tiny bit, mix smaller quanities. That is all it will take, mix smaller quanities. You can mix up 8 oz and spray that little job and then clean the gun with some lacquer thinner, I did that every day for years when I had a small one man body shop.

The only other way that makes any sense are that some etch primers can be left in the gun for a number of days. So, even though they are themselves lacquer based, they have acid and will bite much better. So you could etch prime them and then after having a number of spots or pieces you could run a red scuff pad over them and urethane prime them.

But honestly, just mix less and spray them with epoxy to protect them.

Brian

I personally don't put anything in my spray gun that I don't plan on having out of it within an hour or two. Perhaps I should mention that I typically use acrylic/enamel as that is what I'm more comfortable with through usage, and I can easily blend in repaired areas.

Have you considered using a touch up gun or an air brush for the smaller coverage areas? I have both and both do a surprisingly good job. Each is ideal for smaller quantity use, especially the air brush. Often I have glass jar containers of paint that I have used out of. They store well if I exhale into the container before closing it. Most paint type won't even skin over it this is done, a trick I leaned a couple of decades ago.

Thanks all for the great replies. I do really think I need to update my out dated thinking and appreciate the advise telling me so. I'm still open for discussion on this. Any specific thoughts on brands, type, etc? Most anything is available in my area. Thanks again.

Ron

Ron, I can make a suggestion that is a combination of what you want to do and what everyone is reccomending. On a total repaint I did I used laquer primer as a block sanding guidecoat. Now you could use it for your first primer solely to keep the metal from rusting. When I was done blocksanding there was very little primer left on the car and I recoated over that with a primer sealer that was catalyzed. You could do the same. When you're done with bodywork and such, block the body down to remove most of the laquer primer and reshoot the whole vehicle in sealer. You will now have a very tough primer that will seal the primer from the top coat and an added benefit is that modern sealers are so good they don't allow the metal to rust like old primers that were porous. Of course if you're willing to change your habits then ditch the old primer except as a quickie guide coat for block sanding.

Joe

Lacquer is a thing of the PAST. you end up with shrinking, solvent pop, moistuer getting under the primer.And if you where any kind off bodyman you would NOT leave Paint in a gun for a few days!To save money you only mix what you need and you should use epxoy or a urathane to keep the money you spent on the finish looking great.JUST REMEMBER THAT THE FINISH IS ONLY AS GOOD AS THE BASE. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: