The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine cleaning tips

Since my 235 is still waiting to be installed in my old burb, I might as well give it a good cleaning. What are some cleaners that are safe to use on the old blue paint?

Spray foam biodegradable degreaser. Simple Green soap. A power washer would be nice. You will need lots of different steel brushes. I use gasoline in a squirt bottle for tuff places. As far as keeping the paint intact, Not guaranteed. Aren't you going to repaint while it's out?

If you are not planning on painting the engine, kerosene or diesel fuel will soften the crud without affecting most paint. Stiff brushes of various sizes will help get to the tight spots. A hot pressure washer is another option. That is the easiest way I have found to do it, and no solvents are required.
Carl

hmmm.. haven't thought about repainting.

Not necessary unless more than a driver. Especially after you clean and it looks good (mild patina).

As stated in various places around this web site, the fact that someone posts it doesn't mean Stovebolt.com endorses the practice. Using gasoline for a cleaner is very dangerous. Don't do it.

Simple Green will remove paint.

I haven't seen simple green paint yet. I don't use a candle to illuminate the area when I clean with gas...or fill my lawn mower or put gas in my tank. I have lots of flammable fluids around my house. Members have recommended lye and many solvent types that are dangerous if not careful and you didn't say anything. Kerosene, carb cleaner, mineral spirits, turpentine all have been mentioned, all dangerous. When I say what I do it is obvious the Stovebolt is not recommending it. I get the feeling someone is singling me out for some reason. A simple recommendation that: it is not safe, should be presented as a personal response/opinion just like mine is. Many, many people still use gas to clean parts. Many members do. Big boys do it. Farmers do it, ranchers do it. Safety is always first. Welding is dangerous if you don't use a helmet. Nothing said in posts by members is a recommendation by Stovebolt.com. Everybody knows that. It's a forum with experienced and novice truck people and all in between.

Gas is dangerous but gas cleans well.

I grew up with my dad using gas, I have and do so now. Though if I could afford a parts sink and solvent I would do so.

When using gas you have to be safe. Have a hose ready, use small amounts, work outdoors away from things that can catch fire, have containers to drain the dirty gas into and cap for proper disposal.

And, don't use diesel, it does a poor job cleaning and takes forever, and the results are not as good as with gas.

Gasoline fumes are heavier than air. They concentrate in low areas. There is no safe way to use gasoline. Squirting a gasoline fire with a water hose only spreads the gasoline and fire. Anyone who uses gasoline for cleaning is asking for trouble. And especially anyone who uses a spray bottle to atomize the gasoline.

Now, you have been informed so you can't claim ignorance. Remember the quote from Forrest's mama.

“You're gonna have to figure that out for yourself.”

You mean my motto? Stupid is as stupid does? Thanks Cletis, I understand that it is "dangerous". So are my guns. I've known gas was highly flammable since I was 6 years old. I do it outside, far from any ignition source. I don't think my bottle atomizes it. I don't "spray", I squirt. Big stream. An atomized delivery would not clean.
Box of chocolate, anyone?

“My Mama always said you’ve got to put the past behind you before you can move on.”

Only one I knew was.... box of chocolates... He could mean: stupid is as.... Fits better.

“You have to do the best with what God gave you.”

A cup of gasoline away from anything in a metal pan with 8" sides is not going to create much of a fire.

Also look up navy fog nozzle. Never fight a petroleum fire with a straight stream. Always use a moving spray
to knock the flames down and cool the fire temp thus causing the flames to go out.

Spray bottle?
What spray bottle?
I don't need no stinkin' spray bottle.
I use a part's cleaning brush and clean it like a man.
Jeffrey

I watched locals on Molakai cook fish over a beer can full of gas once. Lit with a match.
I don't worry like I use to after that.

How about that quote from Thumper's mom:
"If you can't say something nice, don't say nothing at all"

Well, you just shut me right up, and I had so much to say...

I am wondering out loud............if this engine needs this much attention to the outside ........what is the inside like ?????

All that oil, grud and dirt starts with leaks....leaks means seals, gaskets and that's just the start as we all know.

I will pass on the philosophies, so what I do is this. I use the bio degradable cleaners, like the various green stuff, power wash, and spot clean with carb cleaner or the green stuff in a spray bottle. When I have cleaned until I am satisfied, I wipe the engine down with mineral spirits. The spirits work very well. Next I brush on a good paint that will take some heat.

Unless you dunk the engine in a tank during the rebuilding process or have access to a steam cleaner, this is about the only way I know to clean it up. It is tedious and not the most amount of fun you can have, but it works.

My dad grew up working in ship yards. He was always cautious about gas. He always said that the fumes from 2 cups of gas could blow up an 80 foot yacht. Not really relevant to this conversation but it loved saying it.

The motor in my Burb looks like crap. I may have to rent a steam cleaner.

Safety First!!

WD40 works well to loosens grease and grime. Need rubbed in with hands or brush to get things going. Thick stuff will have to be scraped with screw drivers and putty knifes and wire brushes. I have an air driven needler from HF. What an amazing tool for hard pack grease in tight spots.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=needler

Don't turn someone applying gas from a plastic bottle by squirting (directional pouring) 6 ounces of gas on a motor, or paint brushing it on, way out under a tree, as creating fumes that will blow. The people who catch fire are in a one car garage with a natural gas water heater, smoking a cigarette and cleaning a carb in a one gallon bucket of gasoline on the floor. 700 billion auto, tractor, lawn mower, boat.... gas tank fumes are vented into the air all day, every day. Approximately.

That Needler looks awesome!

It's very effective at about 30 PSI. You can kind of "pick out" a few needles to go into a really small nook or use them all. It's actually fun to use. On large flat surfaces, like frames, you can use an flat air chisel at low PSI. Scrapes it off fast but can gouge metal if at wrong angle. Takes some practice. A semi-dull chisel is best.

....did anyone mention Oven Cleaner?

I like purple power, or equivlent, and a good pressure washer.


oh, and be sure to wear PPE....personal protective equipment :)_

I wear PPE all the time, but not for that purpose

Has anyone tried one of the small, homeowner-type steam cleaners? The kind you could buy at WalMart or Target...

I assume they might be fairly ineffective on the really caked-on thick crap.

There is no substitute for steam under pressure. Cheap steam cleaners are toys. Stuff like Simple Green and high pressure water will work on fresh buildup. If its been on there for a good while, it takes steam. I would recommend finding a shop with a good steam cleaner and let them clean it. They will not only remove the dirt, but they will have a grease trap for what comes off.

I've used my pressure washer with a line from the H2O heater. You have to run it in intervals if your heater is set real hot but it works great in combination with Purple P or SimpleG.

When a mechanic retired he gave me a chrome water gun. It looks like a 1950's science fiction ray gun. You hook up a garden hose and it has a quick disconnect fitting for an air hose.

So you get the air compressor boosting the water stream. I have used it a few times and works good. Though not the same as a pressure washer or high pressure steam.
Jeffrey

Well I'll go ahead and throw in my $0.02, my choice would be oven cleaner. I got about 5 cans at Dollar Tree and it cleaned my engine wonderfully, all for 5 bucks!!

I try not to use oven cleaners and Gunk degreaser. Some will damage aluminum, rubber, stainless and bla bla bla. I pretend that Simple Green, et al, are biodegradable like everyone else does.

The fact is, if you pour it on the ground or in your toilet, it is!

After you clean your motor with it, it ain't. It's got oil, gas, grease, antifreeze, ATF, liquid Freon, rat poop, paint, oven cleaner, road tar, animal guts, acid rain, plastic, rubber, WD-40 and various automotive additives...in it...and must be taken to a nuclear disposal site. So where did they get the "Simple" part?

Good point bartamos. I got fired from a shop for arguing with the shop manager about spraying "biodegradable" pavement cleaner on a oily/greasy floor, then rinsing it into the lake out back. My argument was just like yours. Sure, the product is biodegradable, but it doesn't magically convert oil and grease into inert elements. His name wasn't short for Richard, but you know where I'm going...

I just run gasoline through my pressure washer while smoking a cigar, to heck with vapors.

This discussion has gone crazy.

I'm thinking now the best thing to do is just throw it in a bonfire, let the fire burn down, and᠁.. presto! clean engine

Thanks for bringing discussion back to sane.

Reviving on old thread.........

Is it okay to use a pressure washer to clean up an old motor? My new donor motor and tranny are covered in thick, hard crusty grease. I’ll pour or spray some Purple Power degreaser on it and let it soak a day or so, then I’ll try chipping away with a putty knife before I would use the pressure washer. Any tips or suggestions are appreciated.

I have successfully done it.
Be sure all holes/openings in-to/out-of the engine are sealed.

Putty knife to get the thick, hard stuff off.
Hot pressure washer after that will get it squeaky clean.