The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Differences between 1/2 ton and 1 ton trucks?

I'm looking for a solid truck locally and the better units are 1-2 ton farm trucks. I found a good running 1 ton but support for the frame seems difficult.

Can someone give me a coles notes on what is different?

What kind of 'frame support' do you need? One tons frequently have 18" split rims, 8 on 6.5" bolt pattern. Modern tubeless wheels not available in 18", however 16 and 17 are available.

What do you want to do with it? That would be a good starting point.

Ed

Anything up to a 1 ton would be a good start, plenty of parts for original and easy upgrades if desired.
If you decide on a 1.5 or 2 ton they're also good but pretty slow as they came and if speed is desired take a lot of swapping and work to get better brakes and faster gears.

As Ed asked, what do you want a truck for?
Figure that out, make a plan on how to get there, and find a truck that fits.

I'm not the guy with a lot of information here, I'm sure others are more versed on the differences of a 1/2 to 3/4 and 1 ton trucks.
I will say though so far on my 1 ton I have not had a problem finding parts. Cab and sheetmetal parts seem to be the same. I have not gotten into the brakes on my 1 ton as they do work well, thats the only one I'm concerned about when the time comes to replace parts.
I say if you can find a good 1 ton, and sounds like you have, go for it. Change the gearing in the rear end and you will be able to keep up on the highway. Be sure your brakes work good if you do change the gearing.
I really enjoy mine. only drawback is it rides like a truck!

There is no optional rear set of gears, so rear end must be changed to get better ratios. GM 14 bolt comes with 8 on 6.5 bolt pattern, plentiful, cheap, lots of ratios. Others too.

Ed

The optional set of gears is out there. Changed mine from 514's to 410's. Big difference. Look here: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/axles/1%20Ton%20Upgrade/
A very easy upgrade. Done on about 4 hours

Well here's my long term plan:

Front IFS
Rear 4-link or maybe IRS
Swap out the trusty old stovebolt for an LS possibly with a 6 speed auto.

There are two reasons I'm thinking about the 1 tons. First the availability of solid cabs on running drive trains at a reasonable price is much better. Second I like the bigger fenders on the larger trucks.

The main reason I'm not convinced on the 1 ton is the lack of support for the frame. Which is why I'm looking for some information on the differences, I don't have access to both a 1/2 ton and 1 ton in the same location that I can compare the the dimensions on. My specific questions are:

-frame width at the center line of the front axle
-Frame width behind the cab.
-Height difference between the frames at the front axle center line.

The rear portion of the frame is easy to deal with as either the 4 link or IRS will require custom fabrication anyhow, the front I'm thinking of running a crown vic front end and fitment is an issue there.

"Differences between 1/2 ton and 1 ton trucks?"

What year/years are you referring to?

You don't say what years you are interested in.
Here is a good link to compare the dimensions:
Scroll down the page.

Chevy truck manuals

Sorry I'm look at AD trucks.

"Second I like the bigger fenders on the larger trucks."

1/2 ton through 1 ton A-D trucks had the same size cabs/fenders/grills/hoods

The differences were in the frames, suspensions, rear ends, and wheels/tires.

Dimensions/specifications can be found at the link given above by Wayne67vert, in this sub-section "Specification Information (Resto-Packs) Packages - Pre 1960".

Sounds like you have enough modifications planned that the body is the important part and any model could be made into what you want, won't be much of any original drivetrain left.

I'm not against modifying things... But it is a good plan to drive one as it is for a while and then make those plans. Quite possible you won't need or want all those modifications, which may save time, money, and be the difference between having a running driving truck and one that never gets finished or on the road.

Totally agree, finding a solid running 3100 locally $3000+, a running and driving 1 ton + farm truck $1000+ locally. The farm trucks are generally in much better shape too...

If I'm gonna resto-mod an AD truck it makes sense to just start with a running 1 ton. and...

THis is awesome thx.

Today I looked at a 3100, basically a bare cab, hood, doors and fenders on a rolling chassis, the guy was asking $2k. I almost puked.

Only redeeming factors is the cab is a 5 window and it looks like someone mounted a ford 9" on the back. He had no idea about the rear diff, he got it an an estate sale. I may go back and offer him $500, maybe I'm sick in the head. If the rear is a ford 9 it may be worth it...