The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Window glass to metal rail install?

I need to replace the side windows in my 51 6400 truck. I am wondering how to deal with the glass where it meets the metal rail? Do I heat it to get the old glass out? I bought new cork/rubber to install the new glass into the frames. How is this done?

Thanks,

If it is original from the factory, dribble gasoline where the glass meets the metal. Allow it to be absorbed. The glass will slide right out.
Carl

Thanks for the tip,

Is there a trick to installing the new glass into the frame?

Hello, Dale,

The procedure is described in the Shop Manual.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0110.htm

The "trick" is to obtain the correct thickness of setting-tape (sold by many reproduction parts vendors).

Use gasoline/kerosene/thinner to remove.

Use oil to install (the oil expands the soapstone impregnated "tape").

THANKS A BUNCH..

This is one of those areas where I find it well worth the expense to enlist the expertise of a professional and his wealth of knowledge.

He does it: you pick it up two hours later, pay $75, it's perfect.

You do it: you break the glass on one side, get a loose fit on the other. Three days and six attempts later you finally get it, learning in the process how you SHOULD have done it. Total cost, $200 to replace broken glass and channel, $500 visit to emergency room for cuts suffered, windows look okay if viewerer isn't closer than 50 feet.

I agree with you, Jesse, for curved windshield glass and the rear cab/corner glass. That is, I agree with you, if you can find a glass installer who knows how to install old-style windshields, especially ones with stainless trim, and will do it for $75 (I am still looking).

Door window glass seems simple enough, if you have correct setting tape and follow Shop Manual directions.

An important point on the vent frames and door glass lower channels is to be sure there are no globs of rust in the glass channel. Also be sure the channel is in the proper position (usually centered) before driving on. The door glass channel can be pinched in a little before putting it on if it seems loose. Just lay on a flat surface and love tap with a light hammer. John

Just did this last year on my 1952 3100 door glass. I removed that rail with a heavy duty heater gun "blow dryer" and removed the old glass, mark the original channel position on each end to get the new channel/glass the same measurement. This step is very important because if the measurement is off it will gouge and tear the verticle up and down channel besides the tear/gouge the window will not roll up without jamming. Found this out the hard way as I ordered new glass fitted improperly to my original rails. Had to heat up that rail and move it away from the verticle channel for proper clearance, after that a little teflon spray and that window rolls up and down solid, straight and really smooth. Lucky for me I had an extra verticle channel to replace the gouged/torn one. Good luck.

Tim, I felt the same way, especially after paint, I had the installers put in and the cab corners and rear look good,the windshield has a little puckering in lower corners,crap.

A lot of times the "puckering" will go away after a few days. It's fairly common for new gaskets. The gasket will form to the body. John