The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Coil problem

Not getting power out of the coil. It was a working coil when I swapped it. I have continuity thru the coil to the lug on the distributor, but no ground to the engine block. If I check the ground from the distributor to the negative cable, I have continuity. I have a wire going into the distributor, and a wire on the block side of the distributor, grounding to the block. Do I need to run a ground wire from the outboard terminal, on the distributor, direct to the negative battery cable. What will that do to the wiring at the distributor?

This ran fine with 12v, and I have switched to 6v. Didn't do anything to the wiring from the negative side of the coil. (Switched to 6v coil)

Also the wiring diagram shows a polarity reversing switch. I don't seem to have one. Is it necessary?

Thanks, in advance. This has me puzzled. BTW, 46 Chevy.

Polarity reversing switches were discontinued long ago. Be sure the breaker plate of the distributor is grounded, NOT the insulated terminal at the side of the housing. A separate ground wire from the housing to the block should not be necessary. The side terminal is connected to the movable arm of the points, and grounds the coil primary when the points close. If you attach the pigtail lead of an ice pick type test light to a good ground and touch the point of the tool to the side terminal of the distributor with the ignition switch turned on, it should light up with the points open, and go out when they close. If it's out all the time, you have an unintended ground between the side terminal and the points.
Jerry

What Jerry said plus. A 12 volt system usually requires a ballast resistor in series with the run circuit (not start). Did you remove this circuit when you went back to 6 volts? Don't know, but it you removed this circuit rather than remove or bypass the resistor, you will have no run circuit.

There was no ballast resistor on the 12v. It was just jury rigged to make it run. All the original wiring was cut out and just enough to make the motor run. No lights, etc.

Not being there I can't be sure but if the wiring harness is really hacked up then it might be a good idea to think about replacing it all together. There are many posts here about that.
Other than that, if you just need to get the motor running do a google search on ignition circuits is see just what wires go where to get it going. There are several guys here who will be pleased that you are returning the truck to its 'roots', six volts.
Good luck.

I've replaced the wiring, but isolating the engine to get running. Right now I am only bringing power to the coil, thru the distributor, back to the battery. Today I tried checking continuity, and ground. Right now looks like the condenser may be the week link. Changed the coil, and no difference. Power to the points, as they open and close.

Going to change tomorrow.