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So I finally get my engine and trans installed and start the firing up process. I top off oil and A/F. Spin the oil pump and get pressure, get fuel to the carb and set the timing. Crank a lot, finally get a few sputters. Oil turns milky white! I check the radiator and no A/F showing.

I will do a compression check to insure the head is OK, but what else could make this happen. My initial search found that the oil line passing through the block may be the culprit but I will check that after the compression check. If this is the issue, the A/F will have drained down to the level of the leak.

First step is to drain the chocolate oil.

This is the fourth engine I have done and it as been nightmare from the start. None of the others have come close to this one.

"I top off oil and A/F."
"I check the radiator and no A/F showing."

Sorry about my ignorance, what is A/F?

AntiFreeze.

Thanks, I should have known that.

All of that water went into the oil pan before the engine ever started?
You have a huge leak/crack somewhere.
Carl

Compression check is a good 1st step. If it is inconclusive a leakdown test would be be a next step.
If you don't have a leakdown tester, you could try the following.
Remove the rocker shaft so all the valves are closed, remove all plugs, using the compressor tester cable, hook it to an air compressor and adjust it to an output of 20lbs or so then connect it to each cylinder one at a time. Then listen for air escaping from the radiator and other cylinders.

Try to do as much troubleshooting as possible with the engine still together as it'll be easier to isolate to a specific area/assembly. Hopefully it's just a head gasket issue...
Good luck
Dave

I did a quick compression test this morning. All cylinders between 55 and 65. This with a re built head block checked new valves new rings and new head gasket
I will do a wet test re check the valve adjustment again and the torque. I can also pull the side cover and check the oil line connection to the block. If I don't find anything, pull the head again and check the head gasket.

Mike, you might want to look into a leak down tester. I've never used one so can't say with any authority.

Dennis

Drop the oil pan before you remove the head, and fill the cooling system with plain water, not more antifreeze. The pan has to come off anyway to do a good cleanup. Pump a few pounds of air pressure into the radiator if necessary, and try to find where the leak is coming from. Removing the head first might actually hide the source of the leak.
Jerry

Probably something to do with the cross thru tube for the lifter oil line. check out this thread and others like it.
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1105746

Had that problem myself, it was the fitting under the side cover that was leaking.

I haven't had the time to get back at yet, but that is what I suspect as well. I saw a thread on another site talking about the same thing. I can't remember if I checked that the fitting under the side panel was tight or not.

Plan is to pull the side cover, do an initial pressure check like HRL said to do and see what leaks. I hope it is the fittings at the side of the engine or the one under the side cover. Next fix the leak and a second pressure check. If not, then drop the pan and keep looking.

It still does not address why my compression is so low. I used a new Head gasket and I thought everything lined up. What may have happened is that there is a head gasket issue as well. It did not appear to have contaminated the antifreeze in the radiator. I think the new water pump pushed the AF through whatever hole is in there and the radiator stayed clean.

I was wondering with the new build whether it is turning over really slow. If so I would think that could affect the compression readings.

It does turn slow. I'm not sure if that would cause this. Once I get the water leak fixed I will see if it spins faster. The engine may have been pushing too much fluid in the crankcase. Will have to see.

OK, I am back on track, had some unexpected things that took me away from this adventure.

I pulled the side cover, put water in the system and pressurized the cooling system. I had a gusher coming out of the pass through oil line fittings. After reading the thread from last year, it looks like I have at least two choices, us a lot of sealer or replace the line and fittings. Probably go with the new parts, as per HRL's comments on the old thread. I am not looking forward to threading the new copper line through the water jacket though.

I read about a slick trick for threading the new copper line through the block. You fish a thin wire through the old tube before you remove it, then you pull the old tube, leaving the wire behind in the water jacket. You then push the new tube on to the wire while guiding it through the block.
Carl

A great tip.
Jeffrey

I will try that!
It is supposed to be a straight shot according to the pictures. One of those simple things that are unbelievably difficult.

Thanks for the update. That's how well learn. Jeffrey

A 3/32" acetylene welding rod or a piece of clothes hanger wire works well, also.
Jerry

Just bid on a NOS replacement kit. Looks to me like I could just get the parts at the FLAPS and make my own. Two fittings for the block that accept a compression fitting and two ends for the pump area connection and one for the rocker connection. And then use the sealant.

The compression fittings used in the OEM kit are somewhat unique, and obsolete now. It's possible to modify regular compression fittings to work, but I think they're too long to fit properly under the pushrod cover.
Jerry

I have the kit coming. The old engine has the original single fitting, but the rebuilt has a replacement kit. I will compare the NOS kit to some off the shelf fittings before I install.

The original compression ferrule was a cone-shaped piece, with the tapered end pointing toward the fitting that screws into the block. The fitting that slips over the tubing has a male thread. It's designed for one-time use, as it crimps itself into the tubing and cannot be removed again. A conventional compression fitting uses a barrel-shaped ferrule and a taller threaded portion that the female-threaded nut screws onto. The standard fitting also has a shoulder that prevents the tubing from sliding all the way through it. I have converted those to a slip-fit item by drilling away the shoulder at times, but the nut always stands taller than the male-threaded version. The same type of ferrule and male thread nut arrangement is used on most direct-reading oil pressure gauges.
Jerry

I reused the fitting under the cover as it is soldered on. it is really easy to reuse.

Update

I replaced the oil line and it went in without a problem. Almost too easy.

So on to the next disaster.

Have the engine all back together and tried to check the compression. No compression,won't even hold 50 lbs. It will pump to 50 in number one cylinder and then drop to nothing. Immediately back to 0. Same story on the rest. I do hear air being pushed out somewhere, can't tell where. I held my hand over the carb and got some good suction, but no compression anywhere.

I am about out of ideas, could the wrong rockers be the problem? I may have 235 rockers on a 216, is that a big deal??

I am about to pull the engine and start over.

Try a cylinder leakdown test before doing any disassembly. I've detailed the procedure several times, so an archive search might bring it up.

I'm typing one-handed after carpal tunnel surgery this morning, so how about dropping me a PM if you don't find it and I'll send you a phone number to call. It's simpler to talk you through the procedure right now than it is to write several paragraphs!
Jerry

I don't think it will do any good. I can't get any pressure to hold. It goes away immediately after cranking. it is the same in all cylinders. I did hear air leaking from somewhere, seems like the block.

Would removing the rocker shaft, plugs, and cranking the engine with the compression gauge on a cylinder tell me anything? My thinking is all the valves would be closed, plugs out, so I would be narrowing things down to rings, valves, or cracks on individual cylinders.

If not, I will go buy a leak down device.

I have not noticed where you have double checked the valve clearances .

I have, just this afternoon, reset the Distributor, adjusted the valves and then did the compression test, for a second time. This engine has a reconditioned head, honed cylinders, line bored mains, new rings and anything else I could think of to rebuild. Even put a 6V alternator on it. When I first discovered the bad compression, I replaced the new head gasket, thinking it was installed wrong or ruined somehow during the oil/water problem.

My fear is that I have done something to the rings or reconditioned head somehow, causing an across the board compression issue.

Check the compression gauge first. It could have a piece of debris in the Schrader valve that's preventing it from holding its pressure reading. The KISS principle applies to test equipment before you start jumping to conclusions.
Jerry

Do you have an air hose and a blow gun? That's all you need.
Jerry

I have a pancake compressor, and will check the gauge.

Get the valves closed on one cylinder at a time, put the transmission in gear and chock the wheels, and put air into the cylinder with the blow gun through the spark plug hole. Listen for leaks at the crankcase, carburetor, and tailpipe, and look for bubbles in the radiator. It's better than a compression test for finding leaky valves, rings, or head gasket problems.

Back off the valve adjusters half a turn each to be sure they're not too tight before doing the leakdown test.
Jerry

Mike,

Jerry is right- it sounds like your gauge is bad. The needle should stick on the highest recorded pressure at the end of the test.

Unless your valves clearances are set wrong (as in no clearance at all) or your cam is timed way, way off, you'd get higher than 50 psi even without rings in the motor! I assume that the correct solid lifters are in the motor (not hydraulic)?

When you are cranking, does the needle ever go above 50 lbs?

Dave

Looks like my gauge is the problem. I checked out the valve and it looked like it was sticking open. That could explain why there was no pressure. When I get back out to the truck tomorrow I will see. I'll take my air compressor too and see if there is something else.

The valves are set at .006 and .015 I am sure about the timing marks being correct, took it apart once to make sure.

Have high hopes for the morning.

This is why I read here. Such a long time since I have had a compression tester I forgot about the little button to release the pressure in the gauge. Jeffrey

The release button usually isn't the problem. It's the Schrader (tire) valve in the end of the probe. A tiny bit of carbon or other debris on its seat will let the pressure leak down or at least give an inaccurate reading.

Cylinder leakdown testing is MUCH more effective than a compression test, and it doesn't take extremely sophisticated equipment. All you need is an air source and a pressure regulator, plus a home-brewed fitting to replace a spark plug. Set the regulator to 100 PSI with no airflow, then plumb the air to a cylinder at TDC with both valves closed and the crankshaft locked. Whatever pressure remains indicates the percentage of leakage- - - - -for instance, 90 PSI indicates a 10% leakdown rate. Listening for airflow at the carburetor, tailpipe and crankcase tells where the pressure is going. Bubbles in the radiator show head gasket leaks.
Jerry

Jerry,

That is exactly what I found. The valve was sticking open. i was just heading over to the barn where the truck is stored to check it out. Hope it works, I don't want to pull the engine again on the dirt floor again.

If I have compression now I will still build a leak down tester and do more investigation. Will post more later with what I find.

Mike

Still no compression with the cleaned up gauge. I am making a device to pressurize the cylinder. I took the porcelain out of a spark plug and am JB Welding a short piece of pipe and an air compressor fitting into the plug. I can then hook my compressor with a gauge on it to a fitting going into the cylinder So I have to wait until the glue dries for the next step.

Is the compression gauge holding a pressure reading when you apply an air hose to it?
Jerry