The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Frame Rivets to Bolts

1951 3100

Doing a complete frame off restore, so I went and re-read , from the archives, all the pros and cons of grinding the frame rivets off and going back with bolts. I really did not see any down-side to doing this. Although my truck will not be a daily driver, I see no reason whatsoever that even if it was, it would not matter. I went with all Grade 8 stuff, (bolts, flats, locks, nuts), which is probably overkill, but I have a real good source on them.

I didn't keep count on how many bolts it takes to replace all the hangers and brackets and cross members, but I do know this, it takes a BUNCH. I don't remember grinding and air-punching that many rivets out, but I must have. For those considering doing this, it ain't that bad a job.

While everything was off, we sand-blasted the entire thing, and I coated all of it with Ospho, cause there are places you will not be able to get to, once everything is back assembled. It's all been painted now and it's a proud moment to see that kind of progress. For those that have done this, you know.

There was no question in any of this, but comments from anybody that has done this, are welcomed.

Kind of doesn't matter now, considering I've done it.

Mike

It's a really bad idea. Even a precision-reamed hole with a shoulder bolt in it will not be as rigid as one with a hot-set rivet. You will probably experience a lot of frame flex, which will result in some oddball handling characteristics. The Popular Mechanics Magazine road tester back in the 1950's summed it up this way- - - - -"Handles like a rhinoceros on a wet clay bank!"

Good luck with that!
Jerry

Mike , my truck has had the same done . Bolts everywhere .

I've done maybe 80k miles over the last 20yrs , lots of them heavily loaded , nothing has come undone or cracked or slogged out yet .

Great to see you are saving another stovebolt

All my spring hangers are bolted but all other original rivets are in my 67. Because I went from 2wd to 4wd. I refrain from welding any additions to the frame and use grade 8 bolts also. My question is why you changed good rivets? Or were they bad?

Oh sure, NOW you tell him!

.

You're are either going to do to it correct, or you might as well not do it. Most all the rivets appeared to be in good shape, tight, straight, etc. There were a few that the heads had mostly rusted away. But how are you going to clean all the rust out that is behind the crossmembers? Or underneath brackets? Unless they are removed, you can't.

I may not have pulled wrenches as long as some on here, but I've done more than my share. And from what I've seen, there's a whole bunch of trucks and cars out there that were not riveted, but bolted. From reading the archives on here, I don't remember seeing anybody who regretted doing it. Just because you disagree with it, doesn't make it wrong. I see semi frames being drilled and bolts installed every day. I know this cause I sell them the mag drills and annular cutters to do it. Are they wrong?

I suppose I could have invested a couple thousand and gone back with rivets. And I could have. And then never use any of that equipment again. No logic there.

It's a done deal now, and I'm happy with it.

Mike

I like rivets where rivets were factory and have set my fair share of them. The equipment can be had for a couple hundred $ and rivets are cheaper than bolts and washers and nuts.

Wouldn't worry about replacing a few rivets with bolts but I sure wouldn't cut the rivets out to bolt the entire frame. One difference in these old riveted frames and a newer semi truck frame is our old frames were designed to be riveted. A riveted joint is more secure than bolted unless unreasonable care is given to fit the shanks of the bolts in the holes, and common bolts won't do that.

Huck bolts are sort of like a fancy rivet, they are what is used for the bulk of semi truck frames these days. The equipment for them is expensive. They are also not the same as common bolts and nuts, again they're more akin to a rivet.

Not quite sure what the point of the thread is if you're welcoming comments but being as the deed is done it doesn't matter....

Perhaps someone in the future will consider this more carefully before doing the same. Or I personally hope they decide rivets are worthwhile and not replace them with bolts.


To discuss the success of frames that have been unriveted and then bolted we should compare the results to the original frames that survive hundreds of thousands of miles with rivets. Has anyone dissembled a modified/bolted frame and checked if the holes are wallowed or still snug, any unusual cracks? Has anyone put a couple hundred thousand miles on a re-bolted frame?

Today's generally smoother roads probably help any frame live longer than they did in the past.

Only point was looking for comments from some folks that had done this. From what I have read, the ones that have done it seem to have not had any issues after doing it.

You are correct in now that the horse is out, no need in shutting the gate. It's done.

But I'm confident in the quality of work I've done, and if it falls apart in the middle of the road, I'll let all of you know. Not so you can say I told you so, (although some might want to), but so the next guy knows what works and what doesn't work.

Dusty from New Zealand says 80K miles and no issues. Was he wrong in doing his? Is he the exception? Most probably not.

Not wanting to sound adversarial, cause most on here have way more knowledge and experience on this stuff than I do. That's why we're all on here, trying to get the best info. There are plenty on here that have done exactly what I have done, and it worked fine. I guess we'll see.

Oh, and thanks to everybody for their input.

Mike