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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 258 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 258 | Hi all
I'm rebuilding my 261 and want to use a full flow oil filter. I'm trying to drive in the dowel but it won't budge. I used a little heat and a bit of wd40. Still won't drive in. Any secrets to doing this?
Also What is the torque specs on the rod small end bolts? Not the big end nuts but the bolts holding the wrist pins.
Thanks in advance.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,792 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,792 | Drill and tap the plug and use a bolt and a sleeve like a socket to pull it out of the block. Then either polish it a little, or fabricate another one that can be driven into the passageway without any danger of cracking the block. I have a 261 in storage that I'm planning on building into a "Cadillac 292" and I'm going to tap that hole and screw a bolt into it to block off the passage instead of relying on a drive-in plug.
The wrist pin lock bolts are 3/8-24, which should torque to 35 ft/lbs. or so. One precaution- - - -use something like a long tapered punch held in a vise to support the wrist pin- - - -if you clamp the rod into a vise and torque the bolt, you can twist the I beam section of the rod. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 592 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 592 | Jay, I soaked mine with Kroil a few times a day for a few days first and then used a punch just a bit smaller than the dowel. It wouldn't budge when I was being timid when whacking it, so I got a larger hammer and used more muscle. Once it broke free, it drove in easily. I did not use heat. I used a piece of thin wire bent at 90 degrees to gauge the correct depth, but discovered that it really wasn't necessary because you can feel when the dowel bottoms out when it reaches the correct depth. The bent wire is helpful because it lets you know when you are getting close and can start to back off.
It is a bit of a tense process because you are on edge about goofing it up, but it sure feels good when the dowel starts to move.
Good luck,
Matt | | |
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