The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Dismantling locked up 261

Greetings all,
I have a locked up '56 261 that I have pulled out of my '48 2-ton. I would like to dismantle it to send it out for possible rebuilding. Since I am a newbie to all this engine rebuilding, I have been looking through the various blogs/procedures/manuals and all revolve around the discussion of removing the bell housing, clutch, flywheel, etc., first to get the crank out, then removing pistons, and so on to get the block ready for rebuilding/cleaning/checking for cracks/etc/

So my question is if the flywheel has to come out first that means being able to spin the engine, I can't do that. So is there a preferred method to getting everything apart in a locked up engine? or do I just go down the path of disconnecting the crank/connecting rods from the pistons, then beating out the pistons with the crankshaft/connecting rods in place. Once the pistons are out, now the crank should be free at this time, I can then follow "typical" disassembly.

(All the rust for my engine is at or above the pistons nothing is below the pistons, I am assuming the crank will be free after that).

Thanks for the various ideas.

Nick

I assume the cylinder head is off? If so, pour 2-3 ounces of KROIL into each cylinder, and let it soak for a week or more. Put a catch pan under the crankcase, as the oil will work its way through the rust and drip out the bottom, and it can be recycled and poured through again. A little heat with a Propane torch to the tops of the pistons before you use the penetrating oil will help the oil do its job.

www.kanolabs.com

Yes, it's expensive, but it works very well to free up rusted piston rings. After a few days, use the chisel end of a long shepherd's crook wrecking bar on the flywheel teeth where they intersect the bottom of the bellhousing, and rock the flywheel back and forth a little at a time. If it gets really hard to turn, back up and move the other direction. Eventually, you'll be able to make a full turn on the flywheel. Be patient!

Last resort- - - -if the crank simply refuses to turn, take the inspection cover off the top center of the bellhousing, and use some universal joint sockets, extensions, and lots of foul language to unbolt the pressure plate. Then you can remove the flywheel and bellhousing.
Jerry

If the head is off you can help the process Jerry describes above by using emery cloth on the exposed portion of the cylinders, or for that matter a cylinder hone on a drill. As Jerry said be patient and use plenty of Kroil. Good luck.

Also remove the oil pan and loosen the main bearing and rod bearing caps just in case one of those has spun and has the engine locked down.