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#1175216 07/24/2016 2:11 AM
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R
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Noticed a rattle coming from the 216 engine when it is idling. Not consistent. Took off the fanbelt, rattle gone. Spin the water pump, tight, no noise. Spin the generator and it definitely rattles. Charges OK. New generator bearing/bushing time. I wonder if local parts suppliers would carry them.

Rick


1939 Chevrolet Stake Truck
rickmg #1175233 07/24/2016 4:11 AM
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Hy rickmg, we need to know the voltage of the generator, they may have different shaft diameters. The generator part number would be the best information.

rickmg #1175254 07/24/2016 1:17 PM
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I had the same trouble on a road trip once. The front bearing on the generator gave up. Luckily we were a couple miles from an old fashioned starter and generator shop in Canada outside of Windsor. It was an easy fix and I suspect the bearing is a common size at an auto parts store too, take it out and see.

The back end of the generator likely has a bronze bushing but some models also had a bearing. If I were still running a generator I'd wand to find an end cover with bearing. However the bushing should also be easy to replace and they certainly last a long time too.

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
rickmg #1175261 07/24/2016 3:18 PM
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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I believe the front bearing is the same one most alternators run, so it should be pretty readily available at a real parts store like NAPA, not one of the big box do it yourself places.

While you're in there, replace the brushes and rear bearing/bushing also.
Jerry


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rickmg #1175264 07/24/2016 3:39 PM
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Have a close look at the pulley,they are known to crack and rub on the end frame.


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rickmg #1175274 07/24/2016 6:36 PM
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You were close Pre '68 Dave. The pulley is two pieces riveted together. The rivets were loose and the pulley was rubbing against the end frame. Reset the rivets and problem solved. The number on the generator is 100004, 6 volt, 3 brush.

Thanks
Rick


1939 Chevrolet Stake Truck
rickmg #1175346 07/25/2016 4:01 AM
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Still be good to check and replace or grease bearing. The trouble I had was with a NOS generator with only about 4,000 miles on it.

Glad you easily fixed the trouble.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
rickmg #1175373 07/25/2016 1:48 PM
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That brings up another question. Do the bearings in a generator get greased or oiled. Both ends of the generator have oil cups. I've always put a few drops of oil in them occasionally. What kind of oil should be used?

Rick


1939 Chevrolet Stake Truck
rickmg #1175390 07/25/2016 4:55 PM
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The shop manual states
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0004.htm
"Every 1,000 miles put a few drops of a light oil, or engine oil, in the two oil cups.

If using a modern/replacement front bearing some chance it is sealed and greased, would not accept oil. The rear unless changed would be a bushing and would like oil.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
rickmg #1175855 07/28/2016 10:08 PM
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 190
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The front bearing was originally open and was the same bearing as was used in the later Delco alternators all the way through the 80s. Even back then though replacements were sealed bearings and thats what you would get now. It is a standard 6-203 bearing. The rear bushing originally had an oil groove cut in it and oil wick. Most rebuilders or suppliers will sale you the solid bushing with no oil groove. These are "self oiling" or "oilite" bushings designed to let oil come out of the bushing and oil the shaft when friction heats it up. I supply both bushings but always cut the oil groove in and install new wicks regardless of which bushing it is. Not all oil grooves were cut in the same spot so I cut the groove where I need it. So the rear oiler becomes functional and the front oiler is just for looks with a sealed bearing.
Ken


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