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I was given a straight 6 that has the valve cover held on with 4 screws along the edge.

Number on the block next to the Distributor: CI46590F54XB

Numbers on the Head: 3835913 GM14,CON 12, L283

What year and displacement?
Is this the "848" higher compression head?

Will this head fit on my 1946 235?

Will this engine fit in my 1946 2 ton?
Thanks Jeffrey

1954 235 from a 3800 truck.
Would be a perfect engine for your swap.
Head will not fit anything before 1953.
That would be considered a 913 head.

Why would it be a perfect swap?

Just bolts in place and matches up with the transmission

Full oil pressure 30 PSI instead of 15 and splash lubrication

All oil goes through the filter

Water pump/fan still at the same height

1946 93 HP @ 3100, 192 Ft lb torque @ 1000 - 2000 rpm VS 1954 122 HP @ 3700, 200 Ft lb torque 2000 rpm


What did I forget, get wrong, or leave out?
Thanks Jeffrey

"All of the above"- - - -except:

You will still have a bypass oil filter, which actually does a better job of cleaning up the oil, as long as the proper filter cartridge is used. Unless you do some pretty risky modifications, no 235 is going to have full flow oil filtering. To flow enough oil to lubricate the whole engine after it passes through the filter, a much looser weave filter media must be used. That translates to less-efficient filtering, even if all the oil gets strained every time the pump picks it up out of the pan.

This discussion has been beat to death for years, and the self-appointed experts who think they know more than the engine designers aren't likely to change what passes for their minds. Change the oil and the bypass filter regularly, and don't worry about how it gets filtered!

The increased HP and torque will be noticeable, especially if you're running at or near max gross weight.
Jerry

Yes, the 1954 (and 1955 first series truck) 235/261 would be the best engines for a swap; however, they would not be "perfect". (I am being silly) The groove on the harmonic balancer (and generator - not part of the engine) are narrower in 1953-55st.

Use the 1954 distributor (and, carburetor, if it fits your intake manifold).

Use the 1946 clutch housing and whichever flywheel and clutch assembly and throwout bearing (as a matched set) that look better.

The 54 has a generator on it.

Though if need arose can the 46 harmonic balancer be put on the 54?

Can the 54 generator have the 46 pulley put on it?

The 54 has a distributor and manifolds with carburetor so I don't see the need to use those 46 parts.

Why use the 46 clutch housing? The 54 also has the clutch housing with the foot start so I would think I it should work.

The '46 housing has the pedal mounts on it.

Hy 32vld and guys, the 54 bellhousing also uses an angle mount rather than the flat mount required for the 1946 chassis

Ditto on Cletis's & 3B's posts - that is why I recommended "Use the 1946 clutch housing . . .".
(thanks for the clarifications and explanations")

I made a mistake.

After careful reexamination of the number with better light I see that the first number is a "O" not a "C".

Correct number on the block next to the Distributor is: 0I46590F54XB

Jeffrey

Serial number 0146590F54XB breaks down as follows...

0146590 = Unit number starting with 0001001
F = Flint Plant
54 = Year
X = 235
B = 3800 Series Truck

Mike B

http://www.devestechnet.com/Home/Project1954235

Those are pics of that same year model engine.

The 54 engine went to the shop today. Cleared up some space in my garage. Funny how empty space in a garage never stays empty for long. Engine lifted the motor onto my trailer and off I went. Next week the truck goes to have the original motor and transmission pulled.

Then the side by side comparison to see what parts will have to be switched over. Then send it out to the machinist.

Today I figured out why I have to use the 46 manifolds on the 54 engine. Vacuum port for the 2 spd rear. So I am a little slow.
Thanks for the help. Jeffrey

Well I never got that motor on the engine stand. Maybe the old 46 remains will eventually get there when everything is done.

Check the diameters of the intake ports in the head, and the manifold ports. You might need to use a set of step-down alignment rings to avoid a vacuum leak. I believe the splash-oiler 235 and the 216 used a smaller intake port than the later 235's.
Jerry

Then maybe easier to have the machine shop drill and tap a hole in the 1954 intake to add fitting for the 2 spd rear vacuum line. Thanks Jeffrey

Thanks for the link.

Going with the 54 engine:

It's saving time due to not having to eliminate Babbitt bearing with inserts thus also saving money.

Full pressure oil.

19 more hp being he works this truck. So if he stays with the 46 manifolds smaller diameter we will be losing some of that 19 hp.

So it seem to be better to have a 2 sp rear vacuum fitting installed on the 54 manifold. Gentlemen, your thoughts on modifying the 54 manifold so not to use the 46 manifold.

Pre-68 Dave is the man for questions like that. I know he's mentioned successfully using a 216 manifold/carb on a "modern" 235. I think DADS50 might also run a 216 manifold on a 235.

First off, need to confirm port size. I think Jerry is right about the smaller ports on a dipper 235, but not certain. Either way, if you have the original carb for the 46 235, you already have the advantage of a properly designed CFM for the displacement.

I think I would adapt the original manifold rather than trying to drill and tap the casting for vacuum hookup, but others might chime in with a different opinion.

1950 235 was the first year for 235's to go to the larger port size, before that they were the same as the 216.
Larger port and carburetor size does nothing but hurt low to mid range power, if anything smaller helps with throttle response and torque.
If I have a good manifold and carb from the original engine, I use them with port adapters on the 235 conversions I do.

I like to call these stovebolts "glorified tractor engines". They were designed and built to have lots of low end and midrange torque, and the bigger manifold runners and ports do little or nothing to enhance that. They do have somewhat better top end horsepower, but for the vast majority of the speeds a working engine is going to run, you need torque, not horsepower to move the load along. I'd definitely use the original manifolds, even if an adapter is necessary for a proper fit.

If I ever manage to get my dyno back up and working, maybe I can do some documented testing instead of making a SWAG about some of these discussions!
Jerry

Dave, were the Carter W-1s used on the early 235 different than the W-1s on the 216?

The parts book shows both use the same.

I rebuilt my son's Carter W1 last summer. You guy's give a lot of great info to think through. Thanks. Jeffrey

Next problem.

The 46 had a governor so the throttle rod is longer then the rod on the 54. What years besides a 54 throttle rod will fit?
Jeffrey

Edit to add: does anyone sell a repro part?

Also need an air cleaner. Did the 54 use an oil bath air cleaner?
What other years that will fit the 1954. Has the round Rochester carburetor. Jeffrey

1. Yes, but the wire-mesh spark-arrestor air cleaner was standard equipment on small trucks

2. Many years through 1959 - any cleaner used on the the same top-diameter carburetor (several styles, depending on size of truck).

1949 through 1959 235, maybe: http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1929_57chevyparts/57cmpc0270.htm

That depends on what intake manifold you decide to use.
Some of the later intakes have a shorter air box and use a shorter rod.

I already brought the 54 engine to the repair shop. Today I am tow baring the 46 2 ton to the shop. The end of Thursday or Friday morning I will tow bar the truck to my house.

Then my son can tow the truck to his catering events as the engine rebuilding is done. Then we will bring the truck back into the shop when the engine rebuild is finished.


The rocker arm shaft half connecter has a threaded end for the oil line to connect to the shaft. The oil feed tube comes up through the lifter/pushrod gallery and has a line fitting so that oil line can't fall out.

My concern is with the oil tube (the tube were the oil exits the rocker arm shaft) that comes out of the left side of the rocker arm shaft connector and bends back over the top of the rocker arm shaft and ends up near the top of the head that feeds oil to the lifters.

You see this "oil return tube" appeared to of partially fallen out of place allowing most of the oil to exit the rocker arm shaft almost as fast as it entered it. Thus causing the engine failure.

How was that tube installed from the factory?

Press fit?

Brazed?

Can we tap it, flare a line and use a line fitting?

How can we prevent it from falling out again?

Thanks Jeffrey

Jeffrey,

There were different styles of oil connector tubes and different ways they received oil from the block "through" the head.

Look at the bottom of this page for other "complications, depending on the year of the block and "top end" parts.

Figure 59 is what the 46 had and failed.

Fig 15 is what the 54 has and that looks to be a better design so I will not have that problem. Off to tow the 46 to the shop. Thanks Jeffrey

PM sent

Update

Machine shop called the shop that is working on my son's truck and said they could get us back on the road sooner for they have a 1954 235 that was rebuilt for a Corvette.

It was done a few years ago is all that I know for now.

Should I continue to have them finish rebuilding the engine that we gave them or go for this already done engine?

I plan on asking for the serial number to verify the year, displacement, vehicle it was originally installed in, how long ago was this engine rebuild done, what was done, was it ever installed, does it have the Corvette cam for starters.

Also what will they need to do to their 235 engine before it gets put into my son's truck?
Jeffrey

What else should I be asking.



They have offered me that engine that instead of my rebuilding my 1954 235.

"They have offered me that engine instead of my rebuilding my 1954 235."
Sounds fishy to me. How well do you know the owner of the shop?

I do not know this rebuilder. Or the repair shop. The repair shop has been in business 30+ years only repairing antique cars.
They always have a wide range of autos from the 20's to the 50's being worked on.

The machine shop has been in business for over 35 - 40+ years and the repair shop has used them many times.

Turns out the repair shop sent out the motor to be "rebuilt" not 3 years ago but 13 years ago but the customer changed his mind.

Too make it a short the story did sound fishy to me and I passed.

The machine shop said they would tear the Corvette motor apart and go through it again. Without explaining what that would entail. Nor did they say whether the motor ever was installed after the rebuild.

And, the best part was this "deal" would only get us back on the road one week sooner. Jeffrey

How much are they asking for this "rebuilt Corvette" engine? If it really is rebuilt, you may be able to make a decent deal. I would be suspect of the "Corvette" part as everyone seems to use that as a marketing term.

I'm always just a little suspicious of somebody who's willing to solve all my problems by selling me something. Could they have just the tiniest bit of a vested interest in pocketing a wad of my money? P.T Barnum had a saying about folks who bite on a "good deal"!

I think you're wise to have the engine rebuilt that you supplied, even if it takes a little bit longer!
Jerry