The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 216 restart after siting

Hello I am trying to get my 46 216 going after sitting for a couple years. What I have done is rebuilt carb, lined the gas tank installed an inline fuel filter,all new lines,New fuel pump. What is happening is it will fire but it will not take hold and keep running, it appears to be flooding small pool of gas laying in the manifold. Is there a chance that the new fuel pump is putting out to much pressure and overriding the float and flooding it. I cheched the float level before assembly for, any idea's would greatly be appropriated Thx I just done all the new stuff recently and it ran fine before. I
should add that I had everything bypassed before using a Jerry can hooked up to the carb

It's been my experience with a couple sotvebolt engines that fuel puddleing in the manifold below the carb is an indication of either an improperly set float or the float is stuck open or theres not enough compression. The float issue is an easy fix but you may not want to tackle it just yet.

Pull the valve cover and observe the valve train while cranking, making sure all valves are opening and closing.
Then do a cold valve adjustment, 0.006 intake, 0.12 exhaust,

If you have a compression tester go straight to that and test all cylinders. You want every cylinder to be at the very least 90 psi and all within 10% or so of the other cyl's.
It'll save you some time and give you a good indication of the condition of your internals.

Good luck

Hi Wolfandt

Thank for your input I have done a cold compression test and have 100lbs in all cylinders. I have also checked the float and it is as the Manual says. I have not did a valve adjustment but I figure with good compression they should be working within a reasonable tolerance or am I incorrect about in thinking that thanks again

100 psi in all cyl's is good enough fire and you're thinking is right re. adjusting the valves.

Looks like you've got compression and fuel sufficient enough for starting and running. The ign system is next.

Verify spark at the plugs. I recommend one of those $5-$10 spark checkers from a FLAPS as they always come in handy and you don't have to hold and crank.
An easy test for spark is to hand turn the engine until the points are closed.
Disconnect the coil lead from the distributor and either connect the spark tester and plug to that lead, making sure the plug is grounded or hold the lead to within 1/4" or so to ground (with insulated pliers etc).
Turn ign swtch on
Using a ty-rap, straw, small stick etc, push the points open and observe for a spark at the coil lead. Every time you allow the points to close then open them up the coil should produce a spark.
Next would be to verify timing.

Let us know.

Thanks again Wolfandt

Well I finally gave in and called my neighbor tonight who is very familiar with that type of system and within 20 minutes had it figured out and running,fine tuned the timing and carb. It turned out to be the polarity switch not sending the power to the points.
Just went straight from coil to points