The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Tons 'o Fun Rear wheel bearings HO72

Does anyone have a current part number for the rear wheel bearings? I got one of them out and it's in really rough shape. Pitted pretty badly. It's a Hyatt bearing, a company is never heard of until now.
Thanks.

Jeremy
Now in Phoenix.

Hyatt bearings were pretty popular 30-something years ago when I was running a truck shop. Do you have a readable number from the bearing you have removed? The cone (with the rollers) and the cup that it rides in will have different numbers, and both must be replaced to get a good result. The cup is usually a press fit in the hub, and needs to be driven out with a hammer and a soft steel drift (not a chisel or a hardened punch). Most bearing numbers can be cross-referenced to another brand by a good parts man. Try to get a good oil seal number while you're at it.
Jerry

Thanks jerry. I was hoping to get them before I tore everything apart. I got seals already. I pulled one hub and got the inner bearing out but the circlip that retains the inner bearing is stuck and I'm soaking the hub in atf to loosen it up. It's going to hit 119° here this weekend and I'm working outside so I was hoping to make this as painless as possible. Lol

You may try this Timken catalog
http://www.timken.com/en-us/product..._Seal_Application_Catalog_1989_older.pdf
Page 125

CHEVROLET/GMC TRUCK - 1 TON -
1972-1946 exc.11000lb.axle
Seal (inner) 2081
Cone/Cup(inner) 388A-382
Cone/Cup(outer) 368S-362

Those are probably them but you should confirm they interchange with your old ones when you get them out and can double check.

The original bearings on these had barrel-shaped rollers. I'm not sure of the reason for that but perhaps it allows for flexing without the edges of the rollers digging into the outer race. Anyhow I couldn't find those and replaced it with a standard tapered roller. Nothing bad has happened other than seal replacement about 15 years later.

To loosen the snapring, knock the cup that is behind it a couple of times with a hammer and punch to get it away from the snapring. Don't hit the snapring.

Update.
I knocked the bearings out and took them to my local bearing supplier.
He took measurements and ordered bearings. I picked them up in Friday evening and am trying to install them now.
So. Here's some part numbers. And some measurements for anyone interested.

Inner bearings
Original.
Hyatt cup 11786Y 52Y OD 3.874
Hyatt bearing D11786 46-B ID 2.256
New
Timken cup 382 OD 3.874
Timken bearing 387 ID 2.246
Outer bearing
Original
Hyatt cup 11830Z 52-Y OD 3.542
Hyatt bearing B11630. 46B ID 2.032
New
Timken cup 28520 OD 3.543
Timken bearing 28580 ID 1.994

The bearing surfaces on the axle are
Inner 2.264
Outer 2.031

There's a pretty big problem. I'm looking for suggestions.
The bearings are supposed to be a slip fit on the axle and these won't even start.

Help.

Scratching my head in Phoenix

I don't know about 1950 1ton rear axle bearings. But rwd cars and light trucks I have worked on the bearings had to be pressed on and off the axle.

Also why did he measure the bearings?

Micrometer is not zeroed perfect the readings will be off and you supplied them with the numbers off of the original bearings.

My knowledge is limited so I sure someone that knows his stuff will be posting here soon then you will get to the bottom of your problem. Jeffrey

They should slip on the spindle. Press into the hub.
The ID measurements you provide for old and the potential replacements illustrate just why and by how much they don't fit. This shouldn't be a surprise given that info.

I haven't worked back from the cup & cone set numbers I provided to compare to the separate cup and cone numbers your parts guy found.... Are they the same?
And what about the advertised dimensions?

Jeremy said, rear axles. Rear wheel drive cars/light trucks only have spindles on the front wheels. But I am not an old Chevrolet expert, yet. So I caught an error or will shortly learn something new. Jeffrey

Yes, he said rear axle and most all vehicles 3/4 ton and larger (including our AD trucks in question) will have "full floating" rear axle. this means that the hub has two sets of bearings each and fits on a spindle made on the axle tube, very much like the front axle, except the spindle is hollow and the axle shaft slides in the middle and bolts or is otherwise fixed to the hub.

Fig. 20 illustrates the hub and bearings.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0411.htm

Ok, lets start over with that info.
Going back to the bearings I suggested:

Looking up those numbers to check dimensions here, with results below:
https://www.baumhydraulics.com/files/catalog/sec-r.pdf
Inner bearings
---Timken cup 382 OD 3.875"
---Timken cone 388A ID 2.265

Outer bearings
---Timken cup 362 OD 3.543"
---Timken cone 368S ID 2.031"

That all matches up with your original bearings and the spindle measurements.
Go back to your bearing supplier and see what they can do with the above Timken numbers, if necessary you could show them the listing for those numbers found by application in the Timken bearing and seal application catalog.

Looks like they did get Timken cup # 382 correct.

I'm gong to look at the taken catalog and see what dimensions I can find. The cups fit fine. The bearings are just too small. Hope they take them back or I'll be out $100....
Then I'll really be [censored].

I believe all the necessary info is posted above, including the part numbers, dimensions, and sources for each. They agree with the measurements of your original bearings..