The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Mounting Engine On Engine Stand

I just got a later model 235. The one with that has 4 stove bolts to hold the valve cover to the head.

Clutch is bolted to the flywheel and the clutch housing is still bolted to the engine. There are on the top two threaded housing holes and on the bottom two smooth holes.

Would it be good to secure the engine stand to the clutch housing?

Or will it make the engine to long making the engine stand unstable?

Should I remove the clutch housing first then attach the engine stand to the engine block?

I only see two bolts on the top of the clutch housing holding it to the engine block. Are there other bolts hidden? Or instead of having bolts near the bottom are there dowel pins?
Thanks Jeffrey

REMOVE THE BELLHOUSING FIRST!

The stovebolt engine is far too long to mount onto an engine stand with the bellhousing attached. It will tip over forward with very little effort, and you'll lose a bunch of toes, or worse. Also, you need to buy the heaviest possible engine stand available, one with a wide stance and four wheels, long enough for the front wheels to extend past the front end of the crankshaft.

Remove the bellhousing by first removing the flywheel- - - -there are bolts hidden under the flywheel that can only be accessed after the flywheel is off. It weighs 40 pounds or more, so be sure you have a good grip on the flywheel before removing the last bolt. Heavy gloves are an excellent idea.

I like to bolt a piece of 1/2" by 2" flat bar about 18" long with holes drilled at the ends across those two top bolt holes above the flywheel area so the engine stand brackets can spread out wide enough to share the load effectively. Use a stack of washers under the lower bracket arms to level the engine and make all the support arms in the same plane. Be very careful if you decide to roll the engine over to remove the oil pan- - - -it can rotate pretty violently if the stand pivot is too far off center. The stovebolt six weighs considerably more than a small block Chevy V8.
Jerry

Remove the bell housing. You are correct in thinking its too long and makes it unstable. These engines are dangerous on a cheap engine stand. Be careful. The bottom housing bolts are on the inside.

http://www.devestechnet.com/Images/Projects/Project1959235/Project59235412lg.jpg

I made a 6 cylinder mount for mine, but you can still do it with the regular mount. I do not have pics of a regular setup.

Well at this point the engine will not turn. So if I can't turn the flywheel I can't remove the pressure plate and clutch to get at the flywheel bolts.

Do not know if the engine seized from rust or something broke inside.

What do you think I should do next? Jeffrey

It's difficult, but possible to get the pressure plate bolts out without turning the engine. There's a small window at the top of the bellhousing covered by a sheet metal plate. With a little ingenuity and some unprintable language, it's usually possible to coax the bolts out with a universal socket and the right combination of a flex-head ratchet and some extensions. You can also soak the cylinders in some penetrating oil such as PB Blaster or KROIL and use the chisel end of a shepherd's crook wrecking bar on the flywheel teeth to get the crankshaft moving.

www.kanolabs.com

Patience is the operative word here. Try removing the distributor, starter, fuel pump, road draft tube, etc. so the engine can be laid over on a forklift pallet for access to the flywheel teeth. Good luck!
Jerry

Thank you. Jeffrey

Jerry if you did not know my son's 1946 235 in his 2 ton dropped a valve. I just got another engine and in my other post it turns out that it is a 1954 235 out of a 3800 truck. Please check out that other thread and comment on that thread on maybe having this engine rebuilt instead of the original 1946 235.

My son uses this truck for his catering business and I think the full pressure and higher HP and torque will help him. Thanks Jeffrey

The only better choice would be a 261, and they're not exactly easy to find or inexpensive when you do. The 54 model 235 will be an almost direct-fit swap, since it will use the same water pump as the splash-oiler 235, and will probably bolt in with the same mounts. You might have to do a little tweaking on the exhaust pipe unless you use the original 235 intake/exhaust manifold assembly. The insert-bearing engine is a good choice, simply because it can get an "in the frame" rebuild down the line by simply changing piston rings and bearings. Adjusting the oil clearance on splash-oiler rods is getting to be a dying art. I'm 70 years old, and I'm probably among the last of the guys who made a living working on the older stovebolts. The splash-oiler engines served us well 75 years ago, but for commercial use, we have better options now. Too bad you're not a little closer to Tennessee!
Jerry

The clutch and flywheel can be removed like Jerry says, I had to do like he says on a GMC engine.

Ed