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Hello All,

I have a 59 Apache was a 6 converted to an 8. The start pedal was moved from the floor to a button on dash. Key "off" allows the stater to turn but engine won't fire. The key "on" provides power and the engine will run.

Negative battery grounds to my header. Positive battery goes directly to starter.

I get intermittent start failure when the truck is cold. Key "on" My ammeter just dips all the was down and no starter. To get her going I will turn the key "off" get the starter turning and turn the key "on" to get her fired.

Same start issue when she is hot but when key is on or off starter won't turn.

Battery is good ground to header is good.
Any Ideas?

1. Why was a 12v 1959 truck converted to 6v/8v?

You have an 8v battery in a 12v vehicle?

2. What header is a ground connected to?
Connect the ground to a starter attachment bolt? (maybe someone will correct this suggestion?)

You might have a weak/bad starter.

I believe he had a 6 cylinder and now has an 8 cylinder.
It sounds like the problem is that the starter is drawing so many amps, that there isn't enough left over to provide spark for ignition.
Why not change out the ignition switch to a run/start/accessory one, and lose the push button switch?
I don't like the idea of using a header bolt for a ground. Too much corrosion going on there.

Thanks Tim, Carl is correct was an I6 converted to a V8.

My system is original 12v with the addition of a lower powered 60s alternator (still using ammeter). My starter is new less than 50 starts on it, replaced original because of same issue. Fresh wires stem to stern, ignition parts all less than 500miles.

Ground is attached to #2 cyl, I will move it as I have to clean it all the time.

Thanks Carl,

I use the button as some what of a anti theft device. I can't tell you how many times I had to teach the guys giving an inspection where the start was and the e brake. I'm not really opposed to eliminating more wiring if it will eliminate the problem.

Should I get a heavier battery with more CCA?
Should I shield the starter from the exhaust heat? that sucker gets hot
Does anyone know the original 3 position starter button model#?

Thanks again guys!

If you can wait, I'm anticipating getting a v8 switch soon.....when it gets here i'll get the numbers to you.

Heat shields are a good idea. The real issue is the battery..or the push to start switch. You need a switch that is good for lots of Amps. The solenoid is greedy.A weak battery will gause the same. The key switch type has a big contact for the solenoid. Ford and Jeep solved the problem with a starter relay. They work well and take the current away from the push button, if the button is something you want to keep.

The "pull-in" winding on the solenoid draws 50+ amps for a fraction of a second before the starter motor starts turning. Most people don't use a push button with enough amperage capacity to handle the surge current. Try a marine-rated starter button with at least a 50 amp momentary surge capacity. Another method is to use a Ford-style magnetic solenoid to power the "S" terminal of the solenoid. That takes the load off a light-duty starter button.
Jerry

PM sent

No updates yet aside from part #s

Ignition delco part# 1116562
Ignition cylinder part# D1419g

I was able to get a few hours to play this weekend.
Battery is only making 10.6v and 200cca with a full charge. My grounding strap was pretty gunked up. My buddy replaced his colum with an Ididit and was nice enough to give me his V8 switch.

I cleaned and reinstalled the starter ground strap, ordered an engine ground strap and a correct battery to firewall negative battery lead.

I will work on heat shield and eliminating the start button after I get the grounds straight.

Thanks again all

Sounds like you have a dead battery. A 12 volt battery should have 12.5 to 13 volts with the engine off and about 14 to 14.5 volts running...

Mike B

10.6V sounds like one dead cell in the battery. Each cell should produce 2.1V when fully charged, for a total of 12.6V overall. I've never seen a 200 cold cranking amp 12V battery unless it was for a motorcycle or a garden tractor. Even the cheapest automotive 12V has about 500 CCA. Good ones are in the 650 range or better.
Jerry

Slow and steady I am getting through my list.

I replaced the battery, installed a new ignition and rewired.
I am keeping my old ignition tumbler so I don't need an extra key.
I cleaned the old tumbler and scraped all the gunk off of it. Question now is do I need to put some grease on it or just install it as is.

Give the tumbler a good hose-down with spray carb cleaner or brake cleaner, followed by a light spray with a silicone-based lube. The oldtime lock lube was graphite powder, but that's fallen out of favor recently for some reason.
Jerry

Thanks Jerry!
Will be back with some progress

Progress updates installed old tumbler in new switch. New switch was missing cardboard so I made my own. Got the switch wired all up and removed all traces of the push button start. I still have some small details to tend to but for the most part I can call the switch upgrade a success.

Has anyone set up a ford style solenoid on one of these trucks? If so is there a thread someone can point me to? Thank you