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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 | Someone on here gave me the excellent tip of using Cascade dishwasher soap in the cooling system before draining, too. I had flushed my trucks system a few times with clear water coming out, then I tried the Cascade. I couldn't believe how much crud and brown stuff came out when I flushed it after running that through it. As a matter of fact, I did it two more times after it was rinsing clear the first time, and I got a repeat show of brown, rusty crud the 2nd and 3rd time, too. There are quite a few posts on this, and the whole affair of crudded up rear lower blocks. Next winter, when it's time to dismantle/repair tin/paint my truck, I'm going to open up the freeze plugs and replace the old rear drain (I hear it will be a bear to get it off), and clean that baby out! Oh, yeah, I also used CLR for one flush too. It also brought out more gunk.
"When I rest, I rust"
1951 3100 5 window w/ '56 235
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2015 Posts: 285 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2015 Posts: 285 | ^ Sounds like a good idea!
I watched a rebuild video for the Carter. Although I have not checked if the throttle linkage will line up, I am pretty certain there is an important linkage missing between the throttle shaft and the accelerator pump arm sticking down below the carb. Can anyone help get me pointed in the right direction for finding that part?? Ebay searches and Mike's Carburetor website have not led to any results. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2014 Posts: 924 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2014 Posts: 924 | Maybe give Jon at The Carburetor Shop a call(?) (573) 392-7378 (9-4 Mon-Tues central time) What is the exact part you need? Local parts stores DO carry some carburetor items in the fix-it-yourself section. Brad
Wrench Fetcher, PhD | | | | | Joined: Feb 2015 Posts: 285 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2015 Posts: 285 | I'll check what they have at the flaps. I need the linkage that actuates the accelerator pump when the throttle opens. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 Gas Pumper | | Gas Pumper Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 | Gustave, it's unlikely you will find that linkage at a FLAPS. It is considered part of the Carb itself. You can either look for another carb like it at the salvage yard, or like Brad pointed out, give Jon a call.
This is one of those issues that reminds me of someone spending all kinds of extra money trying to SAVE money. The Rochester B is the economy carb for these engines. The Carter is the Cadillac. You can get 2 Rochesters for the cost of one complete Carter. You now have an incomplete Carter. You are learning, so its normal and all, but maybe try a post in the Stovebolts Parts Wanted Forum. The guys here will look through everything they have to help you. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2015 Posts: 285 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2015 Posts: 285 | Deve, I'll accept both the criticism and the advice. I am somewhat desperate trying to get this truck down the road. I figured at $26 bucks this Carter was worth a shot. I'll post in the parts wanted and see how it goes. I appreciate all the help I've gotten along the way. I found a rebuild kit for the Jeep version of the YF on eBay and it includes the linkage, but I'm not sure if it will fit. It has both the choke AND accel. pump linkage. I contacted the seller to see if he knows (or maybe one of you guys does) if his provider has a similar kit for a this Chevy YF OR if he knows if the linkages will fit my carb. If the gaskets work too, I'll give the brass a good cleaning, slap on the fresh gaskets and consider myself pretty lucky  | | | | | Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 Gas Pumper | | Gas Pumper Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 | Sounds logical for sure. You will have a very nice carb there when you are done. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2015 Posts: 285 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2015 Posts: 285 | I have been following this so far. You fixed the water flow issue. Good work. The surge and stumble issue would have me looking at air leaks and..Vacuum leaks. A simple test for a Vacuum advance leak: Pull the vacuum line off the carb. Apply a vacuum(yep, suck on the line) and block the line(yep with your tongue). If the Vacuum holds(you can tell) it is OK. If it does leak(and you can feel it leaking) it needs to be replaced or the fitting at the advance is leaking. When the carb is apart(Rochester) make sure the "power valve" piston is free and will move in the cylinder. A caution: The ball bearing in the top of the stand off( the one on top of the power valve must be one of the smaller ball bearings from the kit. The bigger ball will fit(sorta) but it will stick in the cover nut(not fun to remove) and the power valve will not work. I have seen some with the top of the piston rod deformed. Again not good(it can be fixed but is a pain) Setting the float is not too hard. Parallel to the cover. Drop set as instructed and then the close point. Again watch the floats move, they both must clear the gasket and...not rub on any thing. Not a lot of room but a bit of tweaking and it should be good to go. After all is done recheck the measurements A lot can move while you focus on each issue alone. Note: Some carbs require the gasket to be under the standoff(power valve support?) and some, do not. A gasket under when the carb does not need it will make the standoff tilt, or be too tall. No gasket under the support when it is needed will make the power valve non- working(only a small vacuum signal to move it. All of these things can cause the surging and stumble you have described.
Does the heat riser valve move? It is in the exhaust manifold and helps the intake get warm. If stuck open it takes forever to get the intake warm( driveability sucks) Cold intake allows fuel to puddle and (the mixture is unstable), can cause some Stumble and lumpy idle issues. If it is stuck closed, you will over heat the intake and most likely "vapor lock when the carb overheats. It must move and the "spring" should open the valve as it warms up. One more thing to look at: The base gasket and isolator(plastic thing between the carb and intake manifold). Is the isolator in good shape? Some get cracked(I have no idea how this happens) if it is cracked find or make(if you can) a new one. If it is chewed up on the mating surface(either side) you can clean it up with a plate of glass and some sandpaper. The base gasket, in most cases has a notch or 2, sometimes 4 on the inside of the big intake opening. This must line up with the hole in the base of the carb. Turn it around or flip it over until it matches. Then install so yo know where it fits best. Idle mix screw is set about 1 and 1/2 turns out to start, then adjusted for max vacuum( book says to turn in till RPM declines or it stumbles then back out 3/4 turn) Most of the time the setting with the gauge is very close to the book procedure. remember, the above long winded applies to the Rochester B only. With all of those things out of the way, I would look close at the exhaust leak. Not critical all by its' self, but it might be as good a time as any to replace the gasket. Watch for the alignment rings you will need them to reassemble. The last thing I would look at is the points. Spring tension good? Gap good? Is the rubbing block stable? Contacts clean? Simple stuff I know. But it all matters. Post any progress, and know these and other suggestions are to help as best we can. We've got a winner!!! I went through the carb, timing ignition for quite a while today. The carb was apart at least 4 times and I even threw the Carter on for a bit. I messed with the timing so much that I even got the engine to run backwards... Not a pretty sight or sound. I suspected the power piston wasn't functioning correctly because it wouldn't cycle smoothly even by hand. After some cleaning, polishing, and eventually going back to the original spring under it things started improving. So, I went back to the ignition and found that disconnecting cyl 1 made no difference. There was current in the wire so I switched the plugs out and VOILA!! Back to smooth running and 22-23 inHG of vacuum. Went for a test drive and everything went well. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,442 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,442 | Sometimes it's the simplest of things. Fouled spark plug. On the positive side you are now a tune-up expert. Way to go!
Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
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USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
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