The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop using oil ?

1950 216 3 on tree. The truck is running well. At 60 mph the tach says about 2750 rpm. At 45 mph if I recall it reads 2300 . The truck uses oil at 60 mph but doesn't at 45 mph. Obviously it is working harder at the higher rpm. So is using oil. Could someone explain whats going on to make it consume oil ? Rings flexing ? Connecting rods a bit loose with the higher rpm ? Something with the draft tube pushing oil out ? Thanks for all and any help .

If you have a lot of blowby then it will push more oil out at 60 mph. Also if the valve guides are worn, there may be more oil flow to the head at the higher RPM causing greater consumption.

At 45 mph virtually uses no oil at 60mph about 1 litre per 200 miles. Is this amount considered a lot of oil use. Should I be concerned ?

Yes, that is a lot of missing oil.

Is it leaking out/around the engine (front/sides/top/rear)?

Is it dripping out the road draft tube (the "breather" on the distributor side of the block)?

What does the inside of the tail pipe look like?

Engine doesn't leak to any degree. I stuck a tube sock and a rubber band over the draft tube and ran about 10 miles at 60mph and 2800rpm. No amount of oil on the sock bigger than a 3/4'' circle and it was just barely enough to get onto your finger. My tail pipe is black. Spits what I believe is unspent fuel out the tail pipe on start up and until it is warm but doesn't seem to smoke when reved up or driving after warmed up. Again when driving at lower rpm it consumes no oil.

and no oil sprayed out anywhere? assuming you are looking under the truck behind the engine as well. I had an oil filter once that developed a pinhole leak and would only leak at higher RPM (higher rpm=higher oil pressure)


oh, never mind, forgot we were talking about a 216... DOH!

Mike,

You question is good. Why would a 216 make a difference to your question?

On all 215/235/2561 engines, the oil pressure levels/maxes off at normal RPMs (at about 1200-2000 RPM, depending on the year).

My oil pressure is just shy of 15psi. at any thing over about 2000rpm. no change the higher the rpm goes. Would it make any sense to check compression. The truck runs like a charm at all speeds. Just uses oil at higher rpm. Next step a sock over the tail pipe to see whats coming out .

Split manifold dual exhaust and straight piped. It has some real reverse suction on the tail pipe when decelerating. Is it possible to suck oil out of the crank case at this point ? 1.5 exhaust pipe by the way. thanks

What technique did you use to adjust valve lash?

What technique did you use to adjust timing?

What technique did you use to adjust the carburetor?

Well the interesting thing is I didn't adjust valve lash timing or carb. I pulled it out of the bush after 30 some years of it not being started. put diesel fuel down the spark plugs .Then an hour later fuel in the tank and a battery. Been running ever since . I never even cleaned the tank or fuel filters. 4000 miles on it since I started it up. I did wiring brake lines and cleaned up the rest of the brake system. What can I say it just wants to run. I figured it runs so nice why should I mess with it ?

I had an early model 283 V8 which did the same as what you say your 216 is doing. I was young and dumb (now I am not as young ), and replaced the heads with a set from NAPA. It made no change in the excessive oil consumption at highway speed. I am guessing the problem was from worn out rings

My question would be. Why should a set of rings let more oil through moving faster than moving slower. An older set of rings not sealing or not flexing as good ? Could it be that when I push the rpm the piston is riding ever so slightly higher in the cylinder bore. Thus not sealing at the very top of the stroke ? I also am starting to believe the oil is going out of the tail pipe. But why only at high rpm ?

Could it be from sitting the oil rings our fouled up and stuck in the piston from carbon.therfore they our not scraping the cylinder wall. Can try using a marvel mystery oil or simular in the oil and gas to try and free the oil rings of carbon.

Thanks for your ideas. A little more background . Truck has been running for a little over a year now . After i pulled it out of the bush it proved to be an easy start. Got it up and running easily and road worthy. Everything works on the truck down to the vac wipers and clock. After driving it for about 1500 miles the water pump needed replacing. Shortly after I cracked the bottom of #3 piston off. Not too much damage and it gave me a chance to inspect. 60000 original miles on the truck. The engine looks as it seen a freshening up recently although it would have been some 30 yrs ago. Got it back together broke in and it stopped using oil after first oil change. Now i have been driving it harder and is using oil at higher rpms. Pistons were all out oil rings set. But you know how that goes... They will more than likely just rotate where they want to go anyway after a few miles. It could be as simple as a set lined up by fluke . Pushing oil out at higher rpm because more oil being splashed around. Note... Since I have been running it harder I have been keeping the oil line at just over full by a small 1/4". I have been wanting to spin it harder to 3000 or just above but a little nervous. I don't want the dippers to run out of oil at 3000 rpm so the higher level of oil should ensure contact with the dippers. Could I be splashing so much oil that i'm pushing it past the rings ? Would I not need an extra gallon or 2 of oil in the pan before I would see anything detrimental ? Thanks.

If the rings are working properly they rotate around the piston continually. Yes, the gaps align momentarily, but within a few seconds they change position. I've watched a quartz-cylinder engine on a test stand with a strobe light, and it's easy to see the rings move.

At speeds above idle, the oil squirts directly into the dippers- - - -no need for the troughs except to lube an idling engine. Try this- - - -over fill the crankcase by 3 or 4 quarts with Diesel fuel, and run the engine at a fast idle (1200-1500 RPM) for about 20 minutes. The splashed oil/Diesel mix will clean the crud out of the oil rings and it just might solve the oil consumption. The splash caused by the crankshaft whipping into the oil is a better pressure washer than anything that can be done with a brush and solvent. Just don't drive the vehicle with the Diesel in it, and drain the mix while it's hot. Remember to change the filter.
Jerry

you didn't mention whether or not you did anything other than change rings. (or did you, what you wrote is kind of confusing) with 60,000 miles it is entirely possible you have enough cylinder taper to contribute to oil consumption.

Yes I've been told the same about the piston rings rotating. And tend to believe this. Nice to get it verified. How much oil should be included in the diesel mix for the wash ? Would I be crazy to go with straight diesel only ? Thanks

The 60000 are the original miles. Once I opened it up everything looked very nice as if the engine had a once over recently. I changed the piston with new rings over sized, cylinder honed to fit. So yes I have one over sized piston. All cylinders were measured and found without taper. Cleaned it all up. Everything looked nice so that was that. It runs nice and smooth .I was initially somewhat concerned about one piston being bigger but what can I say it runs nice.

Was only one cylinder bored oversize with the engine in the frame? How big is that cylinder compared to the rest of them? I've heard of that being done 50-somerthing years ago, but certainly not recently, as it's almost impossible to clean up the cuttings sufficiently to avoid problems- - - -like wearing out the rest of the piston rings, and all the bearings in the engine.

Use a full fill of 30 weight oil, and add Diesel until the level is about 2 inches above the "full" mark. I doubt if you'll succeed, however, given the possibility of contamination of the engine with cuttings and/or hone grit residue. It's time for a complete teardown and a correct overhaul.
Jerry

Thanks will give it a try. Ya one cylinder 30 over in frame.