The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Door over extension repair attempt

Before
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums...ension%20repair/IMG_3240_zpsdu09woxf.jpg

http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums...ension%20repair/IMG_3239_zpsc4240fjh.jpg

After
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums...ension%20repair/IMG_3238_zpsa1e8q40u.jpg

http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums...ension%20repair/IMG_3244_zpsqryygp7z.jpg

After some discussions with some metal fab and body guys I thought what the WTH I can do this!!
I cut a couple of 1.5" X 3" sections of pipe then welded on the side fine thread bolts to screw into the door hinge mounting holes at the pillar, then inserted a solid steel rod through and rigged up a chain with ratchet boomer attached to the rear frame. Once tight and with some pressure applied I used a 4 ton porta power with puck attachment to insert down into the area through the access panel for the fresh air heater.To protect the panels from the inside I was able to use a piece of maple hardwood on the inside and used a 3" x 6" X .5" flat bar on the crease side.
Using pretty good pressure and pulling on the door pillar together the crease began to move slow and steady NO HEAT was applied. I had a coffee break came back applied pressure and tightened the ratchet a couple of times and let the magic happen, A couple of hits on the inside of the kick panel protected with another piece of Maple with a dead blow hammer seemed to help, I kept the pressure and pulled on it for 24 hrs then released and removed the puck and this is where it's at.
I did use a couple of sheet metal pliers and clamps to help straighten the vent fins, I still have some work to do to this, but I think it's looking a lot better than it did!
I'm not doing paint or extensive body work on the outside as the old girl has a lot of experience and I want it to show.

that looks great, any pics of the process with everything all rigged up?

Good job Doyle! That is a difficult area to get right. The worst ones I have seen are on the drivers side of a 49 or 50 because it gets the vent involved too. Your's certainly wasn't easy with the louvers either. Pulling on the front door hinge pillars backwards while pulling the dent outwards usually succeeds the best. Great job!

Sweet looking truck! I have one in similar condition, and at car shows, folks walk past all of the resto-mods and swarm around my original-looking beater.
While you did a nice job on a tough spot, I would have been just as happy to see your truck with the over-extended character intact.
Carl

I thought I did have some pictures of the rigging I'll check and post them later.

Thanks for the comments, As mentioned I have no intention of making this a trailer queen there will still be door over extension marks on both sides, the biggest reasons for doing this attempted repair was to correct the passenger door from binding with the pillar when opening. There was just over a 3/8" difference between the drivers and the passenger opening measured horizontally from just below the latch and the hinge pillar. At present there is less than 1/16 difference. Both upper and lower hinges had loose pins and some additional twist in the mount.
I'm heading to the B.C. coast to both The Old Car Center and KMS later this week to pickup new hinges and window felt kit as well as other goodies then we will see how the repair really looks. What I''m hoping is the door will close as easy as the drivers side I'd be happy with that.

I'm good with your approach. You had to deal with one of the most challenging part of these trucks. Getting the doors to fit and function properly. Good work!
Carl

Doyle, you have a really rare and nice truck there. You do not see a lot of 1 tons at all, let alone dump bed with 5 windows. Alot of us are into micro-quality rather than being happy with a 20 footer. Nothing wrong with either, but you will only be happy with YOUR level. I think after you get solid hinges that do not move at all, everything will come together. Thanks for sharing!