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| | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 84 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 84 | hey stovebolters!
hope someone can help me... My doors on both sides (at the bottom) are open about 1/2 inch and I can not get them to close flush. Can I take the bottom hinges off and bend them in alittle to help close the gap? any help will greatly appreciated. also anyone willing to trade a complete set of 50 chevy door window trim (inside /out)- painted or stainless for a 54 chevy stainless windshield trim? I have all the clips except 2 (4 total) in excellent condition.
thank you guys. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 259 Member | | Member Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 259 | I had to do that exact same thing on one of our truck. First you should take off the striker and try closing the door to be sure it's not the striker keeping the door from closing all the way.
Joe
Joe
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | The shop manual details the door adjusting procedure. It can be quite involved. The door should close perfectly once you get it though. You may want to make sure your cab mounts are ok because door misalignments is one of the first signs of trouble.
Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 84 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 84 | hey guys,
Thanks alot I just put new front and rear mount components in and all seemed well...I got the doors from a friend and I think the lower door hinge pocket in each door was spung? Because both doors have the same problem. I will try and heat the lower hinges and bend them in alittle.
Thank you guys for your help and look out for me on Route 66 America's real Highway. | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 71 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2001 Posts: 71 | My solution to this problem worked great. Nothing I did to the hinge helped, plus the front edge was nice and flush. So I stuffed some rags between the door and the jamb at the height of the latch, then used a hydraulic ram at the lower rear edge of the door (where it curves in) to actually bend the door just enough to get good alignment. I was careful to spread the force of the ram by using a short piece of 2x4 and soft rags and was also careful to apply force only at the edge to keep from caving in the sheet metal. The ram was pushing against a 2x4 lying flat on the floor and braced against an adjacent wall. | | |
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