The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Stupid ? ( lwb to swb modification)

I saw a car modification show where the took a 1950's long wheel base f6 truck and removed the rivets holding the rear springs and axle on and slid the entire assembly forward. I understand the chevy have a taper on the frame at the rear but what is stopping one from doing the same thing. What would be the issues that may come up if you do this?

it will turn a lot tighter, it may scuff your front tires more while turning and wear them out a bit quicker, depends on how short you go! I had a 57 chev shorty wagon, (was 4 door, cut back doors out and welded back together) it was fun to drive and turned on a dime!

I believe others have made SWB trucks out of LWD trucks as you mentioned. Take some measurements to see what may work. If it fits your needs better, go for it. Of course you would have to source a new driveshaft.

I believe most trucks shops would cut the mid section out and weld/plate it back together leaving the tapered/thin frame in tact. If you slide the axle forward on the frame rails you will be raising the rear of the truck up (higher tailgate to ground) which will also change the front end alignment.

Mike B

Another factor is the crossmembers at the spring hangers, they may not be the same as the ones further up. It'd be smart to again incorporate crossmembers directly at the spring hangers.

That sliding up trick works on some trucks with identical crossmembers and parallel frame rails, same height.
Like Mike points out, not as good an idea when the frame has taper to it.

Shorting a wheelbase by cutting some out of the middle is common practice. I recently cut about 4 feet out of an old flat bed to make a truck tractor.

Before: https://plus.google.com/u/0/1126369...0762756002&oid=112636930370126476644

After https://plus.google.com/u/0/1126369...7757214978&oid=112636930370126476644

This is an old fire truck that I am making a truck tractor out of.

Before: https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNCJw0ZKa7_2Z4uEEmQgLHk5yaPWk30-i5OEbu0


After: https://plus.google.com/u/0/1126369...4006668450&oid=112636930370126476644

I run a tape measure from the left front U-Bolt to The RR and a tape from the RF to the LR to make them square. I use 4 jack stands and a level at the cut to get the front and rear frame rails level and then put them together with a glove inside the frame. They are just as strong and probably straighter than when they left the factory.

And here I am thinking I might need to add some extra length to my frame. I wish we could trade problems!

Adding to wheelbase is no different than shortening it. Only difference is that you have to make two splices on each side instead of one. Too bad that you are not closer, I have several 4' sections on my scrap iron trailer.

I would like to shorten mine so that a 12' flatbed would look right. However, I need about 3' of the tapered section of the frame behind the rear axle first. American LaFrance chopped it when they made it into a fire truck. Once I have that section back to spec I can decide how much to cut out of the middle. Btw, does anyone have one of the cross members from the middle section they dont need from a taskforce 2 ton?

Gene,

I sent yopu a PM...

Mike B