The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop T5 swap - clutch won't release!

Hey all,

I just buttoned up my T5 tranny swap for the third time and no joy. I used the Buffalo Enterprises T5 adapter, my original 1938 9-1/8" diameter pressure plate, a RCF-4203 clutch disk for a mid 80's S10 and the original 1938 throwout bearing, fork and linkage. All of the original 1938 parts are in good condition with only 37,000 miles and they worked just fine with the original three speed last month. I had the flywheel resurfaced about 500 miles ago.

The trouble is the clutch won't completely release. I can get the trans into third and fourth with the engine running and I can crash it into reverse (that was enough to let me take a quick run around the block!), but I can't get into first or second with the motor running. If I put in into first and then bump the starter, the whole truck wants to roll forward just a little.

I put the tranny and disk in by themselves and verified that there is enough spline to allow the disk to come back away from the flywheel about 3/4" and that the input shaft spins freely in the pilot bearing. I carefully looked to see if the disk has been rubbing the inside of the pressure plate diaphram or the flywheel bolts, but there is no evidence of such. I have poured over the pressure plate to make sure there are no broken diapham fingers, retraction springs, etc.

If I had any hair left, I'd be pulling it out! Any ideas?

Pictures of the situation can be found on the last page of my webshots photo album in a few minutes.

Sent you a PM...hope it helps.

Dave

did you relieve the splines (a must on S-10 based T-5's)

Extreme Gabster,

What do you mean by Relieve the Splines, I believe I'm gonna have to do that soon and will need some advice. Myabe you could send me a POM on that?

If the disc is able to pull back from the flywheel with the trans installed on the bellhousing, splines shouldn't be an issue. It's more likely a problem with the distance the throwout bearing is able to push the clutch fingers. Is there a hole anywhere in the bottom of the bellhousing where you can see the pressure plate operate when the clutch pedal is depressed? If not, it might be necessary to make one (Hole saw, etc.) so you can get a feeler gauge between the pressure plate and the clutch disc while someone holds the pedal down. Putting an inspection hole there won't create any strength issues, and it will allow you to observe the clutch/pressure plate/flywheel relationship with everything assembled.
Jerry

I have to agree with Hotrod... it certainly does sound like something from the fork side....

You mentioned that you have to "crash" into reverse. Having not worked on a T-5 yet (soon.... and I can't wait!) but if it is a 2 cable, then your 1/2 and reverse are very closely linked due to them being at the extremes of the cables.

Can you do a cable adjustment? Now given the fact that your car wants to move forwards in 1st, obviously you are having a disengagement issue.... on the clutch pedal that you have installed... can you adjust it out towards you?

t5s don't use cables. they have internal shift linkage

I had exactly the same problem with a T-5 in a '41. When I compared the "new" throwout bearing I had installed with the old one there was a slight difference in measurements. I put the old one back in and it worked fine.

Turned out to be a bent clutch disk. Tossed a new disk in it and it works just great. Thanks for all the suggestions though.

I know this is an old thread but do u have ur swap details online. I have a 1938 and an s10 tranny

Hey Dino, I did this twice now. Well, 1 1/2...I'm doing the rest of second as soon as I get my motor back. There are endless amounts of info on the interwebs. There is some great info on this forum, there is some really thorough ones on the hamb as well. If you have some specific questions, you'd probably do best with a new thread. There are so many helpful members on this board that will help get you straightened out!!!