BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
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| | Forums66 Topics126,781 Posts1,039,298 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 277 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 277 | I read all the posts and watched all the You Tube videos I could find. I bought new glass and the good gasket from Steele. It didn't take long before I realized I was NOT going to get this done. I called all the glass places and of course they wont touch anything that old. I called the local hot rod shop to see if they had a contact and sure enough they did - an old timer that has been doing it for 35 years. He asked if the truck had the stainless trim. Yes, I replied. After a pause he said "good luck, I once tried for four days to put one of those in and finally gave up". Does anyone have a name of a person in the East Tennessee area (Chattanooga to Knoxville)? And to think they probably popped these things in in a few minutes working on the assembly line!
1955 First Series 3100
| | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Please let us know if you find someone who can install the 54/55st window with SS trim?
I did it once many years ago, but I/we have been unable to do it since then.
I have tried seals/gaskets from Steele, Classic Parts, and Jim Carter. | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 6,189 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 6,189 | OK, I'll bite (I've never done a 54/55, but have done a '57 w/ SS trim)...why is it so hard? Mike B  | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 209 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 209 | The difficulty arises because the new gaskets aren't exactly the same as the OEM. The groove for the chrome is close,but not the same. Then if the mouldings got tweaked during removal or storage, that compounds the problem. What I'd try is putting the gasket and mouldings on the glass, as well as the pull rope tape it all together with masking tape over the edge, then let the whole thing set for a couple days so the rubber can start to relax, then install in the truck. Good Luck. John | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Have you done a 1954 windshield with the stainless (not chromed) trim, John?
Whose seal/gasket did you use?
| | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 1,149 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 1,149 | The C-shaped piece of metal that is attached to the backside of the Stainless steel trim. To me, seems to be the culprit as to why it so hard to install. It wraps around or is hooked behind the backside of the glass. Picture I've never installed the SS trim and never seen the backside of the trim. Does the c-shaped piece of metal that is attached to the backside of the Stainless steel trim, run the length of the trim? Or are there multiple short C-shaped pieces? | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 209 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 209 | I've never done a 54/55 w/ mouldings. I think the oldest one was 56 or later. When I said chrome, I was using the old glass shop language ( OH CRAP, this one's got chromes!!!". I've done a 54 3100 with a Precision gasket, a 54 COE with a gasket the customer got from Jim Carter. The glass can play a big part also. For the COE I used Pilkington (formerly LOF). Came out great. The 3100 was a replacement w/s I removed and reinstalled, can't remember brand. I had to play with the gasket to get the corners right. A former coworker had 54 3100 w/a PPG glass and Precision Gasket that didn't fit right. I'm sure the glass was bent wrong, but unfortunately he totaled the truck and was killed before I was able to help him fix it. | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | I have a NOS/NORS L-O-F EZ-Eye 1954 windshield and I hope it will be easier to install than the more modern reproduction windshield.
My trim sets are now packed away in NC, so I cannot look at them, Jorb.
I think that "C-shaped" part/piece, that goes behind/inside the glass, runs most of the length of the 4 main trim pieces - they are the problem. | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | I think that "C-shaped" part/piece, that goes behind/inside the glass, runs most of the length of the 4 main trim pieces - they are the problem. I haven't done an install on a truck but the '57 Chevy sedans use a similar technique to secure the upper moulding. I made sure the trims were correctly seated before the install. I initially fitted the chromes then realised they were not fully seated in the rubber,I spent a little more time making sure the 'C' section was fully tucked into the seal and then taped the heck out it. It then fitted without issue. The biggest problem I've encountered by far is the fact the trims have been 'tweaked' during removal,if that's the case they will fight you all the way. 1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 252 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 252 | I am not sure if my experience with a '51 is of any help but, I replaced mine without too much anguish. I used chrome trim from The Filling Station and rubber from Steele's. I think the secret is to let the trim settle inside the rubber for a couple of days. I used the cord method and it and it popped in quite nicely. I used my heat gun to persuade the corners of the rubber to stretch a bit. The corners are still not absolutely perfect but, they are acceptable. | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 277 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 277 | I am giving it a go because I have no choice. I got the gasket around the windshield and the stainless trim installed. I am letting it sit for a few days and then will have one of my sons help me.
The instructions from the gasket supplier say to use a quarter inch rope but that seems kind of big to me. Is there any magic to what size rope you use?
Thanks everyone. If this goes OK I will have a few tips to share with the board.
Joe
1955 First Series 3100
| | | | Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 571 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 571 | If the rope is too "thin", it will cut into the gasket (don't ask me how I know). Vinyl covered clothesline rope will work. Also, apply lubricant only to the pinch weld side of the gasket. There needs to be a firm grip of the gasket to the windshield glass to keep it from "rolling off" the glass during installation.
| | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Hello, Larry,
Whose gasket did you use?
Did you need a good repertoire of persuasive words?
The lubricant that I have used was a cheap glycerine-based store-brand unscented personal lubricant - it evaporated (and does not contain paint-harming silicones).
| | | | Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 571 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 571 | Steele Rubber Products, Tim, and, yes, I used all my special words more than once. And here's the link to the BillyBob Shop Log episode dealing with the gasket. Windshield Epic - The Good (Fini) | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 277 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 277 | Larry. When you say pinch weld side of the gasket I am not sure what you mean. The gasket goes on each side of the pinchweld. Or do you mean the outside (outer diameter) of the gasket? I was going to duct tape the glass to the gasket to help it stay in place
1955 First Series 3100
| | | | Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 571 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 571 | Outside channel. Duct tape sounds like it might help, just get it off as soon as the windshield is in before the adhesive takes a long term set.
| | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 277 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 277 | My son just left and the windshield is in. Turned out pretty decent. The rope didn't work very well. I used a 3/16, next time I will use the recommended 1/4. I used the suggested conduit lube for the final installation and it worked pretty well. I ended up using two pairs of pliers to pull in on the gasket (after the rope failed to get everything where I wanted it) while my son slapped the windshield inward. While the windshield was out I repainted the dash the original two tone blue. Here is a picture photobucket PS. The duct tape to hold the stainless trim in place was a good idea
Last edited by mendonjo; 03/19/2016 3:17 AM.
1955 First Series 3100
| | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | And the beat goes on..... Time and patience works wonders. Glad you got it all worked out. Nothing like a nice clean clear glass. I'll tip up a good cold Pepsi in your honor, and to your son for helping. | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | I tip my hat and a drink to you, too, mendonjo
Thanks for the report (and, thanks again, Larry).
| | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | Is that a factory clock housing sticking out from the top of the panel?
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
| | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 277 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 277 | yes Is that a factory clock housing sticking out from the top of the panel?
Ed
1955 First Series 3100
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